The Allure of the Dolomites

The Dolomites are, quite simply, a marvel. Rising from the northern Italian Alps in a dramatic collage of vertical limestone walls, jagged cliffs, and deep-cut valleys, this UNESCO World Heritage site is home to eighteen towering peaks, many cresting above 9,000 feet.

Spring is especially beguiling. The upper slopes remain cloaked in snow, yet the valleys begin to thaw – streams gurgle awake, and a gentle warmth softens the air. There’s a luminosity to everything, as if the mountains themselves are celebrating the turn of the season.

Gil and I recently returned from a beautifully-timed ski escape to Val Gardena in South Tyrol, perched at that perfect seasonal juncture – the sweet spot where the winter rush fades and the rhythms of everyday Alpine life reemerge.

For those who time it just right, the shoulder season in the Dolomites offers the best of both worlds: a chance to hit the slopes in the mornings and enjoy sunny spring lunches on the terrace – the crowds have thinned and lucky travelers can now rub shoulders with the locals who linger a bit longer over their espresso. Chairs are turned toward the sun. There’s space to breathe, to savor, and to feel like you belong.

Hotel Gardena Grödnerhof

We based ourselves at the Hotel Gardena Grödnerhof, a Relais & Châteaux gem tucked into the village of Ortisei. The hotel is elegant and deeply comforting, with interiors that feel part alpine chalet, part refined Italian home. Our suite offered a warm, cocooned retreat – natural wood, soft lighting, generous views of the peaks, and all the thoughtful touches that signal true hospitality. Returning here after a day on the slopes felt like a reward in itself, especially when firing up our personal in-room sauna.

Mountain and Après-Ski Delights

The Dolomiti Superski network is unmatched in scope and scenery – over 1,200 kilometers of terrain and some of the most visually dramatic skiing in Europe. Spring skiing here is something special: firmer runs in the morning, a leisurely lunch in the sun, then off to hit the end of season sales at the town’s boutiques.

And lunch that day? A rustic mountain hut serving up the most delicious schnitzel – crispy, tender, and deeply satisfying, paired with a local white wine and sweeping views. Among the many gastronomic mountain huts to choose from, we chose Daniel, and it did not disappoint.

Après-ski in Val Gardena has its own understated charm. A delicious Alto Adige/South Tyrol wine on a terrace might include one of these high-altitude, aromatic, mouthwatering whites: Pinot Bianco, Kerner, Sauvignon, Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, or Grüner Veltliner. For red wine lovers, Lagrein and Schiava are must-tries.

Spa and Wellness in the Alps

One of the joys of a ski holiday is the contrast between exhilaration and rest. The spa at Gardena Grödnerhof is immaculately designed, with an indoor pool, hydrotherapy area, multiple saunas, and treatment rooms that look out to the snow-dusted gardens. There are countless corners to retreat into – heated ceramic loungers that mold to the body, gently swaying cocoon chairs, even plush water beds for two.

And for my American friends, a gentle note on local custom: in South Tyrol, sauna culture follows the European tradition and swimwear is typically not permitted. Instead, you’ll find most guests enjoying the sauna in the nude – seated on a towel, relaxed and unbothered. This practice, known as “nudism” in the context of saunas, is based on hygiene. The heat and humidity in saunas can cause bacteria to thrive in swimwear. So leave your inhibitions behind, and live like a local!

Culinary Pleasures in the Dolomites

The best part about skiing in Italy? The incredible array of food and wine, divine in its simplicity and freshness. Meals are unhurried, grounded in seasonality, and full of intention – whether taken fireside or al fresco – high on the slopes.

One evening, we dined at Tubladel, an Ortisei favorite housed in a former 17th-century farmhouse. The menu is rooted in Ladin traditions – earthy, seasonal, and rich in flavor. The interiors felt cozy and inviting and the wine list was a beautiful homage to the region, highlighting the elegance and depth of Alto Adige/South Tyrol’s best bottles.

Another night, we stayed in at the hotel for an incredible tasting menu at the two Michelin Star Ana Steuben – lovingly named after the owning family grandmother. The restaurant’s tasting menu delivered course after course of thoughtful, elegant dishes – each beautifully paired with exceptional regional wines, each worth remembering.

However, no trip to Italy is complete without a gorgeous pizza showcasing local charcuterie, cheeses and foraged mushrooms – accompanied by a delightful seasonal white asparagus salad!!

The Enduring Allure of the Dolomites

The Dolomites cast their spell in every season. I’ve had the joy of exploring them before on a hut-to-hut ski adventure—an experience I still find myself reminiscing about and one I’m always delighted to share with you here.

This August (2025), I’ll return to these majestic peaks, this time with girlfriends for a summer version of the same journey – hiking from rifugio to rifugio, savoring alpine beauty in its warm-weather form, so watch this space if you are intrigued.

There’s a reason the Dolomites are on everyone’s lips just now. The (February) 2026 Winter Olympics will unfold in and around Cortina, bringing renewed attention to the region’s snow-dusted splendor. Adding to the excitement, the iconic Rosa Alpina has been reimagined under the Aman flag – an elegant new chapter for an already beloved address.

A small note for travelers: This enchanting region is known as Alto Adige in Italian, or Südtirol in German. The area reflects both languages and cultures – menus, signage, and daily life are expressed in a beautiful blend of the two. Located in the northern province of Trentino-Alto Adige, the Dolomites form part of the larger Alps – yet offer a character all their own, rich with culture, beauty, and a distinct Alpine rhythm

Whether it’s a celebratory toast after a day on the slopes or a quiet morning coffee overlooking spring-green valleys, the Dolomites offer their magic in every season.

Salute!!