Northwestern Spain: Wine & Gastronomy

Spain is the second largest country in Europe. It has 17 autonomous regions, each with distinctive personality and characteristics, as seen in their heritage buildings and cities, fiestas and traditions, and local cuisine. This trip to the North of Spain was simply one of our many favorite experiences traveling this fantastic country, but what was remarkable about this trip is that we did not run into one fellow American for eight days, a nod to the authenticity of Northwestern Spain. We ventured north of Madrid with our incredible sommelier guide and dear friend, Raul. We spent glorious days in the magnificent wine regions of Toro, Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra, and Rias Baixas, staying in centuries-old Paradores and feasting on mouth-watering regional foods, including some of the freshest seafood available on the planet, all paired with exceptional wines from historic family-run vineyards.

Toro, Spain

Sitting at 2500 feet above sea level, high on Spain’s central plateau on the banks of the Duero River, the small but mighty region of Toro encompasses about a dozen villages. Toro is known for massively powerful dense red wines based on the local varietal of Tempranillo, called Tinta de Toro. The best wines come from old vines dating back more than a century. Choosing high-quality wines in this region is key, and you will be rewarded.

Nicola, our famous host in Toro

We had the most beautiful day with a local celebrity and “honorary mayor,” a fabulous British woman who came into the region and worked with the local farmers to raise awareness and market and distribute the delicious wines produced in Toro.

Nicola’s project and business, Spanish Palate, makes its own wines from grapes throughout Spain, as noted in BOTAS de BARRO. Still, she also represents outstanding grower-producers with exceptional artisanal brands that deserve acclaim.

We started at the stunning historic castle overlooking the city, tasting some beautiful wines she represents from around Spain. This region’s powerful sun-soaked land was immediately evident as we took in our first sips and sights of the trip.

An enormously important town declared to be a Historic-Artistic Site. Its strategic position gave rise to it being a site of conflict between Christians and Muslims, a court of kings, and the capital of the province in the 19th century. Today, many visit to admire its incredible collection of Mudejar art, influenced by Islamic tradition and reflecting various contemporary European styles, mainly Gothic. Mudejar is characterized by a highly refined and inventive use of brick and glazed tiles in architecture.

How fun for us to arrive in Toro as they prepared for one of their many festivals. Walking through town with Nicola, who knows absolutely everyone!

Time to visit the vineyards and taste the “Tinta de Toro”

VARIETAL: TEMPRANILLO

FULL-BODIED RED WINE: RASPBERRY, LICORICE, GRAPHITE, EXOTIC SPICES, ROAST MEAT
Two growing regions withstand sweltering summers in the Duero river valley to produce rich and tannic Tempranillo wines (called Tinto Fino or Tinta del Toro here) that exude sweet black fruit paired with scorched earthiness. Several of the world’s top Tempranillo estates are found here.

Toro is hot, dry, and sandy, and its vines are some of the lowest yielding in the world, resulting in what they call INK OF THE BULL – “Tinta de Toro,” which, when high quality, is surreal and complex, such as the Alma de Gildo which we enjoyed in the vineyard.

Doña Negra

A lovely and robust lunch to match the powerful wines was enjoyed in town at Doña Negra.

Natually matched up with more Tinta de Toro, Tempranillo of Toro.

León, Spain

We continued our journey north to the not-to-be-missed city of Leon on the Camino de Santiago. León is a beautiful city, combining stunning historical architecture with an irresistible energy. Its standout attraction is the cathedral, one of the most beautiful in Spain, but there’s so much more to see and do here.

Parador de León

Paradores is a network of 97 state-run hotels (96 in Spain & 1 in Portugal). They are marvelous properties consisting of restored Castles, Monasteries, Convents, Fortresses, Manor Houses, and Palaces, as well as some exceptional modern properties. While some are definitely better than others, they all have breathtaking bones. Parador de Leon was exceptional, and I highly recommend it.

One of the jewels of the Parador crown, this magnificent building dates back to the 16th century, thanks to a donation from King Ferdinand, and encapsulates much of the history of Spain. It recently opened its doors after a major 15 million euro renovation. It is also one of the most iconic Renaissance buildings in Spain. With just 51 rooms, the hotel is grand yet boutique.

I suggest my clients book one of the spacious corner suites with great views of the plaza and the river and well designed for comfort.

The property is lovely day and night. Spanish people really appreciate their heritage and national treasures and enjoy their sights as much as the visitors do.

This evening, we took a stroll through the Barrio Humedo (which literally means the “Wet Quarter” due to the number of bars in the area). We discovered the Wet Quarter, Calle Ancha, the main pedestrian street through the old town, and the Barrio Romántico – the trendy area of the city. Here you can find delicious ” cochinillo” (suckling pig) and “cordero” (lamb) prepared following age-old recipes on the wood-burning stove.

After such a large lunch, we opted to just visit the local tabernas of Leon with various stops for tapas and Prieto Picudo – the local grape. Its easy to pick just the right sips and bites when you are traveling with your sommelier and wine guide, Raul.

Bierzo, Spain

This morning, we depart from Leon and head west to Bierzo. Bierzo is the much-spoken, trendy wine area in Spain. A mystical and unexplored region for centuries, exploring this newly fashionable region is a real treat. The valley and terrain of Bierzo are breathtaking! This mountain region’s soil is made up of slate and quartz thought to contribute to the flavors of its most famous varietal, Mencía.

Village of Valtuille de Abajo

We were lucky guests in the village of Valtuille de Abajo – with 47 inhabitants and 17 wineries; our hosts were at the fabulous winery of V de Valtuille. V de Valtuille is a family-run winery with a long tradition of growing grapes in the area. It reflects the values passed down through the generations, including a pronounced importance of respect and care for the land.

Marcos is in control of the vineyard and the production of the wines, using the advice given to him years ago by his grandfather Antonio. Like life in this tiny village, V de Valtuille is a winery of tranquility where Marcos knows his wines and gives them the necessary time to enjoy them at their very best. We met three generations of the family involved in the operation or just coming around for the afternoon family lunch tradition. It was beautiful to catch a glimpse of this life.

We spent time with Marcos tasting his wine from the barrel, even though feverish plans were underway all around him for Marcos’s weekend wedding to his lovely fiancee from Mexico. Later, at lunch at the local restaurant, we met the bride and her family from Mexico, who joined the generations of this wine-making family at the table for lunch. Work hard, play hard – but always time for family and the afternoon meal.

This business is a family affair indeed. We spent time with Elena, Marcos’ sister, who runs the winery, and she is a gem. She took us to the exact plot where their best grapes grow, and we luckily tasted the fruits of their labors in the exact spot it was conceived. Somehow, wine tastes so much better when you can taste it in its terroir.

WINE VARIETAL NOTES OF MENCÍA:

MEDIUM-BODIED RED WINE: DRIED HERBS, BLACK PLUM, SPICY RED CURRANT, COFFEE, GRAPHITE
A lighter-bodied, age-worthy red that’s grown in cooler, mountainous areas in Northwest Spain. The fruitiest styles are found in Bierzo and wines become more elegant/herbal as you move westward from Bierzo to Valdeorras to Ribera Sacra.

This surprising and delicious varietal is gaining is becoming very fashionable as wine drinkers discover its wildly, spicy, gamey, and minerally profile.

We tasted the delicious family wines with local red peppers, breads, and chorizos.

Moncloa de San Lázaro, an old leprosy house.

Today’s lunch was at Moncloa de San Lázaro, a traditional Bercian building that was an old pilgrim hospital in the 17th century, housing leprosy patients.

This traditional restaurant served authentic food with beautiful Bierzo wines to wash it down. We tasted local sausages, roasted peppers, empanadas, Botillo de la Moncloa, & marinated Ribs.

We got to watch the ladies peel and jar the colorful, bursting with flavor, and tasty peppers so ubiquitous in this region.

We then drove onward to our next hotel, Palacio de Canedo, also on the Camino de Santiago, we watched many walkers hike right through the property.

Palacio de Canedo

With just 14 rooms, decorated in the same historic esthetic as the main building, winery and restaurant, the hotel is a refuge for pilgrims hiking the Camino de Santiago or for wine enthusiast soaking up the liquid gold of wines from Bierzo.

The Palacio de Canedo sits on vinegards producting red Mencía and white Godello. It has character and is a perfect place to rest your head for the night and enjoy a hearty meal before moving onward.

Ribeira Sacra

This impossibly beautiful region in Galícia is a nature-lovers paradise, showcasing some of Spains oldest vineyards on impossibly steep vertical gorges and canyons all along the Sil and Miño rivers.

The ancient Celtic culture of this region regarded these forests as sacred, and why monks and hermits have sought refuge and meditation here for centuries becomes evident as we walk through the forests full of thousand-year-old chestnut and oak trees and discover some of the remote landscapes of the Ribeira Sacra or “Sacred Shore.”

The Wine-growing tradition in Ribeira Sacra is often referred to as “heroic viticulture”, referring to the perilous task of viticulture of the Mencía grape along the sides of the river valley’s steep cliffs.

Bodega Algueira Winery

One of the producers who has significantly contributed to put Ribeira Sacra on the wine map, Algueira is a family venture set up by Fernando González Riveiro and his wife Ana in the 1980s. Their son Fabio is now taking the helm.

We had a very special day at this highly successful winery and restaurant, and spending time with the Ribeiro family was one of the trip’s highlights. We got to meet Fernando and Ana, the founders of the Algueira winery, who were beyond gracious and worked in all areas of the operation, including the wine shop and absolutely fantastic restaurant. Fabio generously gave us his time and full attention, educating us on the varietals of the Ribeira Sacra and the incredibly delicious Galician wines that Algueira is producing.

Algueira produces more than 100,000 bottles and has an extensive portfolio exported to over 20 countries. Over the years, some wines changed names because the appellation did not allow producers to mention any grape varieties other than Godello and Mencía on the label. Still, this rule was lifted on the 2019 vintage.

Sublime Galician specialities were enjoyed at our lunch at Algueira winery!

Parador Sant Estevo

Today, we checked in to another fantastic hotel in Spain’s Parador system of hotels in iconic historic landmarks. The Parador de Santo Estevo is a hidden gem in a Benedictine monastery. Located in the heart of the Ribeira Sacra, the property is surrounded by nature and boasts spectacular panoramic views of the canyon of the river Sil.

Dinner at Parador Sant Estevo

This evening we had another beautiful meal, again showcasing local products, seafood, vegetables, meats, and wines all prepared in authentic Galician tradition. Everything we ate on this trip was noteworthy, and tonight at the Parador lived up to expectation.

Rías Baixas

Rías Baixas is a province of Galicia and in many ways this region feels worlds apart from the rest of Spain. Did you know that the Gallegos, as the Galicians are called, drink more wine and eat more seafood than any other Spaniards? Like the Basques and the Catalans, the Galcians or Gallegos have distinct cultures and languages, all displaying their Celtic routes.

My husband Gil, loved Gil Armada for obvious reasons…

When the small white wine of Rías Baixas in the far Northwestern part of Spain, just above the Portuguese border, came into prominence in the 1990s, a new era for white wine in Spain came about. Though famous for the fortified Sherrys of Andalucia and the sparkling Cavas of Catalunya, Spain is world-renowned for its bold red wines. While Rías Baixas has grown white grapes for centuries, it was not until the technological revolution of the late 80s and early 90s that the Rías Baixas began to be considered among Spain’s best white wine producers, notably for its Albariño. This is also an unusual region, not only because the topography can make one feel they are in Scotland or Wales, but because unlike other wine regions of Spain where the wine labels only show the region, here the wine labels only show the varietal, Albariño.

Fefinanes

We started the day with a visit to Fefinanes, the oldest winery in the region. The grape here is Albariño; this famous and aromatic grape makes up 90% of the grapes in the area.

Located by the sea and home to one of the world’s most outstanding cellars, Fefinanes’ wines strive unceasingly to reflect this deliciously magical heritage with a unique taste and experience. The small vineyard that was planted with century-old vines inside the estate walls still flourishes today and lovingly conserves the traditional production methods of Galicia’s original winemakers.

As a result of the high humidity and rainfall in Rías Baixas, many vineyards are trellised using the traditional parra system, which elevates vines up to seven feet from the ground. Combined with wide vine spacing, this system encourages ventilation and prevents mold and rot from developing in humid climates.

WINE VARIETAL NOTES: Albariño

LIGHT-BODIED WHITE WINE: LEMON ZEST, HONEYDEW MELON, GRAPEFRUIT, BEESWAX, SALINE
One of Spain’s champion whites that grows best in the cooler climates of Rias Baixas (Rhee-yus By-shus). You’ll note wines become richer and more grapefruit-driven (vs. citrus and saline) from the inland areas where there are more clay-based soils.

Travel is not always glamorous; sometimes, you need to pull into a parking lot to try and make room for all the wine you are buying along the way on a wine trip. Note that not all wineries and regions are set up to ship wine. My number one tip is to always travel with a specialized wine suitcase to pack away the bottles you fall in love with safely.

Combarro

Combarro is a magical little fishing village on the Galician coast of Spain, located in the Rías Baixas (“Lower Estuaries”), outside the beautiful city of Pontevedra. This charming village has a charming historic quarter…

…and dozens of tiny seaside restaurants. A delightful afternoon!

Seafood lovers go mad in Rías Baixas or really anywhere in Galicia where the seafood is simply legendary! The deep estuaries of the Rías Altas and the Rías Baixas are fjord-like funnels for fish and the seafood caught in Galicia is one of the largest in Europe. Naturally, every table and every meal is filled with some of the best seafood you will ever taste.

It is hardly coincidental that Galicia, blessed with some of the best seafood in the world, is the top producer of Albariño, perhaps the most compatible wine to enjoy with seafood. Its pure, clean flavors and unique ability to appear both zesty and creamy at once make for one heck of a marriage!

After lunch, we strolled throuhg the tranquil town of Combarro to see some of the famous Horreos (stone structures used to store grain).

Hotel Torre do Río

Enjoying a magnificent location, overlooking the river Umia and surrounded by the splendid landscape of Galicia, Torre do Rio is set in a spectacularly restored 18th-century textile mill. This charming boutique property offers luxurious accommodation in a tranquil rural setting. It was a favorite respite for our group, and we were thrilled to have two nights here to relax, swim, enjoy the magical grounds, and experience the doting hospitality of the team.

Situated a short distance from the historic spa town of Caldas de Reis, Torre do Rio is perfect for relaxing visits to this beautiful corner of Galicia. Local landmarks include several Roman bridges and the spectacular waterfalls on the river Umia. The beautiful estuaries of the Rías Baixas and the magnificent city of Pontevedra are also within easy reach. The hotel’s enormous gardens within the property are ideal for relaxing strolls and quiet moments of contemplation. There is also a spacious lounge with an open fireplace and an elegant dining room where breakfast is served.

The ten luxurious double rooms, all individually decorated with a skillful combination of bare stone walls, noble timber floors, and exposed beam ceilings, all of the rooms have views of the grounds and some of the refreshing pools whose waters are fed by the river directly from a waterfall.

Our lovely room was filled with the sweet sounds of the river…

Attis Bodega Y Viñedos

Authentic – Artisanal – Atlantic

Attis is a family-owned winery founded in 2000 by third generation wine growers. Owned by the Fariña family, father Robustiano provides years of experience to support his sons Baldomero and Robustiano, Jr. in their management of the vineyard, winery and business operations.

ATTIS MAR

While our original hope and plan were to go out on a boat into the rough Atlantic where Attis has divers place their Attis Mar Albariño deep in the cold Atlantic waters among Mussel traps for aging, the weather did not allow for this incredible experience; it is so unique that I am happy to share a bit about this unique wine aging process.

“Authentic, artisanal, Atlantic, autochthonous… ATTIS MAR raises the values of our Albariño ATTIS to its maximum expression. The cold waters of the Atlantic are responsible for rocking this wine for six months underwater and elevating it to a higher level.”

We did spend a glorious day however, with the owners of the winery, meeting the winemaker and then spending the afternoon with the winemakers wife, Laura, who humbly oversees much of the winery business and mamarketing efforts. We tasted the fantastic Atlantic wines and in the tasting room ….

… and then joiner her for a superb traditional lunch in the family’s restaurant.

Santiago de Compostela

And finally, like tired wine pilgrims, we arrived to our last stop, Santiago de Compostela. Known to trekkers and pilgrims over the centuries as the culmination of the legendary pilgrim’s trail Camino de Santiago (Saint James’ Way), the magical medieval city of Santiago de Compostela was, until the 18th century, the most important pilgrimage destination in the entire Christian world. It remains a bewitching and alluring town that combines majestic medieval architecture, a buzzing café culture, and a storybook historical center where ancient monuments, modern boutiques, and wonderful restaurants rub shoulders along narrow cobblestone streets.

With our local guide, we visited the Cathedral, the old market and wondered through the narrow cobblestone streets of the city.

You can also visit the Finisterre “the end of the world” – before the America were discovered, Europeans said this was the end of the Earth.

The main Plaza of the Cathedral, the typical drizzle of the Rias Baixas, and the sounds…

O’Sendeiro

This was my most memorable and favorite meal of the trip, an incredible seafood lunch at O’Sendeiro with wine selections made between Raul and the restaurants cutting-edge and adventurous female sommelier. Super special afternoon!

Parador De Santiago de Compostela

It was only fitting that our last hotel was another remarkable heritage building in the Spain’s famous Parador network. The Hostal, was first built as a Royal Hospital in 1499 to house the many pilgrims arriving in Santiago. Said to be the the oldest hotel in the world, the Parador de Santiago de Compostela is also one of the most remarkable, combining history, art and tradition located in the middle of the Plaza do Obradoiro.

The icing on the cake for our last night on this truly memorable trip, were our upgrades to our enormous, historic suites.

The Last Supper

Our guide Raul, really outdid himself on this trip and we were sad to already be sharing our last meal. This little Michelin star restaurant connected to the market serves what they have fresh….

…and Raul of course paired it with thoughtful and superb wines.

I live part time in Spain and I have traveled extensively through the country throughout my life, but I will say that these 8 days were beyond epic in every way. The breathtakingly beautiful regions we visited, the special care and insider access we had at each winery along the way, made to feel like family by the wine-making families we shared with, and of course traveling with our friend and wine guide, and our besties is irreplaceable. A note to readers: The Northwest of Spain, perhaps with the exception of Santiago which attracts pilgrims from all over the world, is very raw, authentic and untouched. As an example, we did not run into a single fellow American in 8 days. I highly encourage you to allow me to help you expand your Spanish horizons and to immerse your self off-the-beaten path on your next trip to this glorious and enormous country. Good things await! Salud!