A verbatim recap as provided by a fantastic RTLM client who took his multi-generational family to Kenya and Tanzania for the safari of a lifetime!

Is it Travel Genius or is it Laura Madrid Magic? Or are they the same?
The Eden was a great choice to relax before the 9 days of safari. Our rooms were delightful. The nearby giraffe sanctuary was a nice experience too, especially feeding the young giraffes.



Our first safari lodge, Camp Lewa, was incredible. The owner Sophie was there and over dinner became very interested in how we had found Lewa House, and we told her about you, the level of services you provide and, of course, the clientele you attract. We seemed to represent the type she would like to see more of, especially, I would guess, of the multi-generational family. She herself is the fourth generation to live on that land, once her great-grandfather’s cattle ranch and now 62,000 acres of nature conservancy, with very limited access by tourism vehicles, which creates the most natural game viewing experience imaginable. We saw all of the “big five” at Lewa, and Joseph, our Maasai guide, was fantastic, both extremely knowledgeable and personable. He was especially great with our 11 year old grandson, as were the rest of the staff, telling him so much about the animals, the eco-system and their Maasai culture.

The food was great, the rooms were a delight, (giraffes walking by our windows) and the open landscape of wide savanna’s and rolling hills is hauntingly beautiful. The animal density is amazing, and as a rhino sanctuary for half a century both the black and white rhinos were plentiful.



Plus hundreds of zebras, elephants, lions, cheetahs and even the elusive leopard. Jonty and Sarah Watt, who manage Lewa House, have redefined country house hospitality; after a couple of rollicking dinners we really did feel as if we were welcome guests at a gracious family home. With only nine rooms the small group atmosphere is very relaxed and easy. The total experience at Lewa House was just perfect. We highly recommend it as both a total safari experience and a relaxed oasis of gracious hospitality.


Transferring to &Beyond Bateleur gave us a different experience, equally as luxurious but set in the woods on the Masai Mara. Here our Maasai guide, David, also took a special interest in our grandson Caelen and helped guide him through the steps needed to develop the skills and mores of the Maasai warrior. We visited the nearby Maasai village which was far more genuine, personal and fascinating than I ever would have predicted. Caelen was fascinated and frankly so were we all. It’s so different when you are there and personally seeing and relaxingly chatting with the people about the daily life, the deeply personal respect for culture and values, and experiencing their warmth and openness. Bateleur may just be the perfect choice for those doing one stop in Kenya. It has delightful facilities, great food (with menu choices), wonderful game drives, superb staff, a lovely swimming pool overlooking an active watering hole and then the majesty of the Masa Mara. Jonathon, our butler, was just a treat to get to know, the essence of gracious service seemingly effortlessly delivered. His warmth and caring, especially for Caelen, just enveloped us in the comfort and security of being truly well-cared for. It is an art, seldom experienced these days. Esther, who seemed to function as a type of major domo for the rest of the staff, became a warm and welcome presence, seemingly everywhere, and a thoughtful guiding friend. What wonderful people!



Sitting still and quiet in our vehicle while watching lions hunt – from 10 feet away – while the zebras leisurely drop down from the hills and cautiously circle the water, one of them limping a bit at the back, and then the elephants close in around the babies as the crested crane suddenly squeaks a warning to its friends and the zebras scamper away, just out of range, as the lions separate to cut out and isolate the weakest animal – wow, does it get any better? And this level of exciting engagement happened on almost every game drive.


Mkombe House at Lemai was a whole new level. The home is huge, and with a staff dedicated to us, consisting of a wonderful butler (Babuu) , a room attendant (Tom) , a chef and a waiter (Shadrach) it felt like we were in Downton Abbey on the Serengeti. We loved the spacious home, the spectacular views, the pool, the outstanding food and the fabulous service. Our guide Kasim was just wonderful; he was really concerned with making our trip not just special but just what we wanted. We tracked lions feasting after a kill, rode next to a hunting leopard, and found two week old baby elephants. We were all thrilled, and our grandson was ecstatic. On our last day he drove us quite a way, extending his day, to see the first of the wildebeest at the vanguard of the Great Migration. Hundreds and hundreds of them!


The hot air balloon ride was absolutely stunning! Soaring gently over the Serengeti plain and following the Mara River, watching the waters froth with dozens of heaving hippos and giant crocodiles, dazzles of zebras, families of elephants and journeys of giraffes – with a charming and professional pilot – what could be better? Well, the champagne toast and splendid full English breakfast (after the giant pitchers held by turbaned attendants poured warm water over our washing hands and into a copper basin) made this event really special. And we all appreciated the unexpected luxury of the three sided tent “loo with a view”. The professionalism of the ground crew was amazing, all the details perfected and the experience unforgettable.

It was a great idea to include Michael as our photographer in Tanzania. He fit in well with our family group, and with the staff, and took some amazing photos. We only got to see a few, as he had over 1,000 to edit. We should see the rest this week.


On our way home we all appreciated the “great idea” day pass at the lovely Crown Plaza hotel in Nairobi, where the people once again went out of their way to ensure our comfort, where the food was really good.



Thank you again for arranging an incredible African Safari experience and Paris visits.
Every lodge we have stayed at has been just exceptional, each with its own distinctive identity, but all sharing an extraordinary dedication to making our trip as wonderful as possible. The staff regularly went to great effort to please us in all the little things as well as the main activities. And the food! So delicious but healthy and varied, every meal pleasing three generations of palates while remembering all our individual dietary preferences.
This truly was the trip of a lifetime…


TIPS from the family about their safari:
- Every game drive was different, with a knowledgeable guide always state your interests and he or she will do their best to locate them, and then nature will surprise you with unexpected gifts. I did 16 drives and every one was a treat.
- Although a luxury, the greet and transfer service was a huge plus. African airports and airstrips can be overwhelmed and get very confusing quickly. If it is in your budget, private charters are a great anxiety-reducing option.
- For those families like us who have a person with some limited mobility, the private vehicles and dedicated guides are critical to everyone’s healthy enjoyment. They also foster great relationships you will remember for the rest of your life.
- The people of Kenya and Tanzania love kids, and go out of their way to make the trips wonderful for them.
- The schedules are tough on sleep, as the best viewing times are dawn and twilight, and the dinners run late. Plan to nap every day between game drives, even if you don’t normally do so. The drives are a prolonged adrenaline rush that will wear you out.
- The places we visited had almost no pestering bugs and were much cooler than expected due to altitude and some seasonality. But we used a good amount of repellant and always wore long sleeves and long pants. The temperature ranges are wide, and they rise and drop quickly every day and evening. A good warm fleece was critical.
- Bring a good compact flashlight. The camps are pitch dark and while the staff always brings lights after dark, every bit helps on rough and unfamiliar terrain.