After the whirlwind of Virtuoso Travel Week in Las Vegas, I was ready to trade the bright lights for some fresh mountain air. My next stop was Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, where winding rivers, pine forests and the quiet of the mountains provided a much-needed change of pace.
I have been sending guests for years to experience Dunton, a collection of wilderness retreats with deep roots in southwestern Colorado. I had the unique privilege of traveling as a guest of Relais & Châteaux to both Dunton River Camp and Dunton Hot Springs, a former mining town whose restored cabins and natural geothermal waters have given it an extraordinary second life. Both properties have their own personalities, united by a shared approach to hospitality and a respect for the land and its history.
The San Juan Mountains
The San Juan Mountains are one of the great landscapes of the American West, with rugged peaks rising above alpine meadows, thick forests and winding rivers. It’s country made for exploring, whether on foot, horseback or mountain bike.
Days here revolve around the outdoors, with the pleasure of a good meal, a glass of wine and a comfortable place to return to after a day in the mountains. Dunton’s two properties occupy different settings, one along the West Fork of the Dolores River, the other within a 19th-century mining settlement. Both draw much of their character from the surrounding landscape and the region’s history.
Dunton River Camp
Spread across nearly 500 acres beside the West Fork of the Dolores River, Dunton River Camp has just eight safari-style tents scattered along the river and among the trees.
With so few accommodations and so much land, the camp feels wonderfully private. There is space to roam, settle in with a book or spend an afternoon doing very little at all. And for those who prefer a full itinerary, the mountains are waiting.
The camp operates seasonally, welcoming primarily adults with selected family-friendly dates during the summer. Its size also lends itself beautifully to an exclusive takeover, especially for a family gathering or a celebration among friends.
The Tents
Having stayed at some wonderful African safari camps over the years, I felt immediately at home in Dunton’s tents. They have that familiar sense of outdoor adventure, with all the creature comforts taken care of.
Guests can choose between River Tents overlooking the Dolores River and Mountain Tents tucked among the trees. Inside are king beds, generous bathrooms with six-foot soaking tubs, separate showers and double vanities. Private porches invite you outside, and each tent comes with two mountain bikes for exploring the property.
I adored the cast-iron gas heating stoves, designed to resemble traditional wood-burning stoves. They added a cozy touch, especially on cool mountain mornings.
My favorite daily ritual was the delivery of morning coffee to the tent. Sitting beside the stove, hot cup in hand, with the mountains waking up outside, was a delicious way to begin the day.
Life at Camp
Life at River Camp has an ease that is hard to beat. The intimate bar, complete with a pool table, is a natural gathering spot, while indoor and outdoor dining areas offer plenty of opportunity to enjoy the surroundings.
Meals and most beverages are included, with hearty, fresh cooking that draws on ingredients sourced locally wherever possible. I was completely smitten with the fresh river trout.
I loved the freedom to spend my days outdoors and return to a perfectly made Negroni and a chef-prepared dinner. For someone who enjoys an adventure but has no intention of giving up a few civilized pleasures, Dunton gets the balance just right. My kind of camping!
Beyond the Camp
The San Juan Mountains provide an enormous playground. Hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking and fly-fishing are all part of the Dunton experience, with guides available for private excursions farther into the wilderness.
I spent my days exploring on two wheels, hiking into the mountains and fishing along the river that runs through the camp. It was a pleasure to be active outdoors with such easy access to the surrounding landscape.
The Spa
And then there was Mary Frances. I have enjoyed massages in some extraordinary spas around the world, but my treatment with her may have been one of the best I’ve had anywhere. I would happily return for another!
Dunton Hot Springs
Just a short distance away, Dunton Hot Springs tells another story.
The original mining settlement has been brought back to life through the restoration of its historic log cabins, with the natural hot springs remaining at the heart of the property.
I was struck by the care and resources devoted to preserving the town’s original character. There is nothing Disney-esque about Dunton Hot Springs, thank goodness! The owners have been remarkable stewards of its history, retaining the timber buildings and their individual quirks while making them thoroughly comfortable for today’s guests.
Wandering through the settlement, you can appreciate how much work has gone into preserving what was already there.
The Cabins
Exploring the cabins was a treat. Each has its own personality, and I loved opening one door after another to discover an entirely different interior.
Some are small and cozy, others wonderfully romantic, with generous copper bathtubs or private outdoor sitting areas. There are also substantial multi-bedroom cabins that would suit families accustomed to plenty of space and privacy.
The restoration respects each building’s character. Original timber and period details sit comfortably alongside modern conveniences.
And a favorite cabin? That’s rather like asking a parent to choose a favorite child. Impossible!
The Hot Springs and Life at Dunton
The natural geothermal springs are, of course, one of the great draws of Dunton Hot Springs.
Water travels deep beneath the San Juan Mountains, where it heats naturally before returning to the surface at approximately 105°F. The historic bathhouse was built around the springs, allowing guests to soak in the mineral-rich water as it flows through.
Inside, old timber surrounds the steaming pools, while the restored settlement and mountains lie just beyond. There are additional soaking spots outdoors, including near the original spring source.
I loved that the bathhouse still feels so connected to its origins. You can appreciate the mineral waters in a setting that has retained its rustic character, and the experience is all the better for it. Guests staying at River Camp can also enjoy the bathhouse, which is available for private reservations.
Horseback riding was another highlight of my visit, thanks to our wranglers, sisters Tori and Brooklyn. The two could not have been more delightful, and their skill in looking after riders of different abilities made the outing a pleasure.
And the food! Fresh, hearty meals that reflect the region, with local ingredients wherever possible.
There are several gathering spaces around the settlement, along with larger residences for families and groups. I could easily imagine spending a few days here, alternating time in the hot springs with horseback rides, long meals and evenings catching up around the table.
The People Behind Dunton
For all the character of the properties and the beauty of their surroundings, I think the Dunton team deserves special recognition.
Remote ranches often depend on seasonal employees, which can make maintaining a consistent level of service a challenge. At Dunton, I was impressed by what appeared to be an experienced, long-serving management team, with staff moving comfortably between River Camp and Hot Springs.
They shared an easy camaraderie. They clearly know their guests, understand what is expected and seem to take real pleasure in looking after everyone. The atmosphere is warm and professional, without an ounce of fuss.
That feeling of being in capable, caring hands followed me throughout my visit, from the morning coffee deliveries to the time spent with our guides. It says a great deal about the people who make Dunton what it is.
The RTLM Take: Which Dunton Experience Is Right for You?
Having experienced both properties, I can see how each would suit a different style of mountain getaway.
Dunton River Camp would be my pick for a gathering of friends, a milestone celebration or several families traveling together. The safari tents, riverside location and opportunities for outdoor adventure create an easy setting for shared time. With only eight tents, an exclusive buyout would be perfect for a private occasion.
Dunton Hot Springs has a character all its own. The restored mining settlement, individually designed cabins and natural geothermal baths make it a lovely choice for couples seeking a few days away. Larger cabins and ample gathering spaces also lend themselves to multigenerational get-togethers, milestone anniversaries and wedding celebrations. I would certainly consider an exclusive takeover for a bigger occasion.
For those with a little more time, a couple of nights at each property would allow you to enjoy both sides of Dunton, from the riverside safari tents to the historic cabins and hot springs.
I left Dunton feeling relaxed and refreshed. The crisp mountain air certainly played its part, but it was the people, and the pleasure they take in sharing this corner of Colorado, that I will remember most.
A few days in the San Juan Mountains turned out to be just what I needed after Las Vegas. And I wouldn’t hesitate to return.
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