In the Company of Peaks
There’s a reason the Dolomites continue to capture hearts year after year. This dramatic stretch of the northern Italian Alps is made up of towering limestone peaks that seem to glow differently with every hour, sometimes blushing pink, other times cast in quiet silver. The landscapes here are bold, but the beauty is layered and gentle. It’s no wonder the entire region is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
In summer, these peaks shed their snow and reveal a whole new personality. Meadows burst into bloom, the scent of pine lingers in the air, and the sound of hiking boots on gravel becomes the season’s soundtrack. Rifugios open their doors to trekkers with warm hospitality and hearty Ladin dishes. The longer daylight hours offer more time to wander, to notice, and to truly arrive.
This August, I returned to the Dolomites with three dear friends, Maripat, Jennifer, and Julie, for what we fondly named our DoloMIGHTY adventure. It was a week of hiking, via ferrata, and rifugio-hopping. Joyful movement, meaningful conversation, uncontrollable laughter, and alpine magic filled every day.
Venice Arrival: From Lagoon to Lift Off
Our journey began in Venice, where the canals set the tone for what would become a beautifully immersive Italian escape. We checked into Venice Venice Hotel, a bold and beautiful blend of art, architecture, and the city’s mischievous spirit. It doesn’t so much whisper “hotel” as it does “living installation.” Dinner that evening at Al Covo reminded me how elegantly the lagoon expresses itself on a plate.
While Venice was only our starting point for this alpine journey, it was far too layered and magical to summarize here. I share more about our time there – including our final night – in this post dedicated entirely to La Serenissima.
By morning, we were off by private taxi, crossing the lagoon toward Cortina d’Ampezzo, the heart of the Italian Dolomites.
Cortina d’Ampezzo: Alpine Charm abuzz with Olympic anticipation
Cortina offers a refined kind of mountain-chic charm filled with restaurants, bars, clothing boutiques, and art galleries, a proud city abuzz with preparations to host the world for the 2026 Winter Olympics.
We checked-in to Hotel De Len contemporary yet grounded, with the most delightful, authentic service!
The roof top spa is delightful and private, our group of four was able to reserve it on a private basis.
Rain kept us off our planned cycling day but between exploring the town, beating off jet lag at the spa, and a top-notch wine tasting with the hotel Somm, we did not miss a thing!
Our dinner that evening….at the traditional AL CAMIN was an incredible introduction to the Ladin Alpine wines and gastronomy we would enjoy throughout the week.
We checked out the newly opened Hotel Ancora and just loved the contemporary & playful vibe.
Into the Mountains and Rifugio Life
Into the Rifugios: Fodara Vedla, Lavarella, and Lagazuoi
After Cortina, we traded in our suitcases for small duffle bags and day packs, quickly transitioning into a slower and more intentional kind of travel. Rifugio life is humble, but far from lacking. It’s about simplicity, comfort, and sharing space with fellow wanderers. Luckily on the mountain, food and wine are never after thoughts!
Then it was time to meet our mountain guide for the week – Alessio – mountaineer, skier, tri-athlete, and arborist! Suffice to say the group quickly concurred that RTLM always secures the BEST guides and Alessio certainly did not let us down as he kept us motivated, even during the most difficult climbs, he kept us grounded when the heights and distances seemed a bit much, he kept us safe, well fed, entertained and was literally the most fun Dolomites guide we could hope for.
Day 1 -Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Reserve
Today’s hike took us through the breathtaking Fanes–Senes–Braies Nature Reserve, a vast protected area of over 62,000 acres known for its rugged limestone landscapes and charming clusters of ancient wooden farmsteads called Viles, once self-sustaining Ladin communities. Beginning at Malga Ra Stua (5,814 ft), we followed trails through forests and alpine meadows, climbing past the dry basin of Lago di Remeda Rossa and along the serene Lago di Fosses (7,093 ft), with the dramatic Piccola Croda Rossa rising to the east. The route led us up to Rifugio Biella (7,634 ft) for sweeping views of the Tofane and Pelmo Massifs, before continuing across undulating ridgelines dotted with wildflowers and marmots toward Rifugio Sennes (6,942 ft) and finally to our cozy mountain retreat at Rifugio Fodara Vedla (6,447 ft).
Mountain lunches are a daily treat on any Dolomites day. Alessio always gave us options on how far we wished to push ourselves and gave us Rifugio options for a relaxing place to replenish ourselves between pushes. Local charcuterie, wholesome soups, cold local beers, and fresh mountain air is the perfect antidote to long walks.
Our first evening was spent at Rifugio Fodara Vedla, perched above the valleys with views toward the Croda Rossa. A family-run Rifugio and a beautiful place to spend the night with a superb view east to the Croda Rossa Massif. You can’t imagine how excited we were to arrive at our first home for the night. Mission accomplished, at least for today.
Our legs had certainly earned their rest, and slipping our feet into the icy rush of the mountain stream felt both indulgent and medicinal (my PT would have wholeheartedly approved). A crisp glass of local Riesling in hand (Somm seal of approval there), and we were buzzing with that giddy sort of pride that comes only after a day well conquered on the trail.
We were spoiled with delicious Ladin dishes, served in the comfortable wooden Stuben (traditionally the room in a farmhouse where the stove was located and cooking took place). The menu offered crispy salads from the rifugio’s garden, handmade pasta dishes, as well as Tyrolean specialties such as dumplings and local meat dishes.
This was my office for the stay, a small post with a little table – the only place a wifi signal was available.
Time to say goodbye to Rifugio Fodara Vedla.
Day 2 – HIKING in Altopiano di Fanes
This morning, we set out from the rifugio and began a steep descent toward Rifugio Pederù (5,079 ft), following a rugged dirt road that wound sharply down through the valley. The first hour and a half was a brisk downhill stretch, with the final section feeling nearly vertical. From Pederù, we started our climb toward Lago di Limo, gaining almost 1,750 feet over about 5 miles on a narrow, switchback trail that rewarded us with sweeping alpine views.
Along the way, we passed a few rustic huts before reaching Rifugio Fanes (7,126 ft), beautifully set just below Limo Pass with panoramic vistas of the Tofane Mountains. The hike took around four hours, covering roughly 5 miles with a mix of challenging ascents and descents. Another absolutely delicious lunch, this time at Rifugio Fanes.
Later in the afternoon, we ventured out on an optional hike to Passo di Sant’Antonio (8,090 ft), a 3-mile round trip that offered unforgettable views over the Fanes Plateau and Alta Badia Valley – a perfect finale to a spectacular day in the Dolomites.
Needless to say, we were exhausted, yet elated.
We arrived hungry and happy, ready for a hearty meal and a few well-earned glasses of Alto Adige’s finest. Clean, alpine wines that tasted even better at altitude. As for the rooms…let’s just say not all rifugi are created equal. Some have bunk beds and a shared bath somewhere down the corridor. But the setting? Absolutely pristine. It didn’t take long to trade our creature comforts for the sheer privilege of waking up in such wild, untouched beauty. And truthfully, the laughter that comes from a little roughing it, is often the best part of a girls’ trip.
Day 3 – HIKING the Altopiano di Fanes to the Lagazuoi Massif
Time to say good-bye to Rifugio Lavarella.
We set out from Rifugio Fanes (6,759 ft) under a clear alpine sky, following a gentle trail that curved upward through a quiet valley toward Passo di Limo (7,126 ft). The morning light danced across the slopes, and soon the shimmering waters of Lago di Limo appeared beside us, surrounded by carpets of wild gentians, buttercups, and globe flowers. We passed an old wooden cross and a crumbling military post before descending toward Malga Fanes Grande, a cheerful converted farm tucked into the meadows.
A brief stop for beautiful views and strong espressos – truly happy to be alive!
From there, the trail led us through open highlands dotted with limestone formations, then upward again to the dramatic Forcella del Lago, a narrow gap in the mountains that opened to a steep descent of loose rock. At the base, we found the emerald-green Lago di Lagazuoi, framed by pines and backed by the towering cliffs of Cima del Lago and Cima Scotoni – a scene straight out of a painting.
The final stretch was a long, steady climb toward Rifugio Lagazuoi (9,029 ft), winding through rocky terrain and remnants of World War I tunnels and trenches. When we finally reached the top, the reward was beyond words: a 360° panorama of the Dolomites, with the Marmolada, Pelmo, Civetta, and Croda da Lago glowing in the evening light. For those who still had energy, a short 10-minute walk led to the Lagazuoi summit, one of the most breathtaking vantage points in all the Alps.
It was a day steeped in alpine magic – 7.9 miles of rugged trails, layered history, and views that stopped us in our tracks.
Day three was the most demanding. The hike to Rifugio Lagazuoi included WWI tunnels, alpine lakes, and a long climb on switchbacks. As we reached the top, the landscape opened up completely. Lagazuoi, perched at nearly 9,000 feet, feels suspended between earth and sky. Ok this was worth every single step!! A big “GRAZIE” to Alessio for getting us here!
Not a bad days work…..
We were ecstatic to have arrived at the other-worldly Rifugio Lagazuoi, at what felt like the pearly gates themselves after such a day.
We were giddy with excitement to steam up in our own private sauna!
But just maybe the pasta was the highlight of the night…
Day 4 – Via Ferrata and the Descent to San Cassiano
Before setting out on our final days hike, we reached the summit of Lagazuoi Pizo: a stunning panoramic point, overlooking the Alta Badia valley, surrounded by clouds we felt very close to heaven and took a moment to say some prayers for our dear friend Catherine who is fighting for her health.
Our final day on the trail introduced a new kind of exhilaration. We retraced bunkers and tunnels of the Italian and Austrian military on the same Via Ferrata soldiers used during the World War II on the paths of the Sass de Stria. The day was part history lesson, part adventure, both beautiful and somber.
The descent to Capanna Alpina carried a celebratory rhythm. We paused for lunch at Rifugio Scotoni, where the region’s beloved speck dumplings – pillowy with cheese, spinach, and day-old bread – were every bit as delicious as promised. Plates of creamy polenta with grilled meat stew, charred vegetables, and a perfectly chilled bottle of rosé made the shift from trail-worn to thoroughly pampered feel complete.
In San Cassiano, we checked into Dolomiti Wellness Hotel Fanes. It’s hard to describe the feeling of arriving at a beautiful spa hotel after five days of trekking, but I’ll try: grateful, restored, slightly giddy. Deep tissue massages, warm pools, and soft linens met us exactly where we were.
The town of San Cassiano is just lovely, where even the cemetery is perfectly kept.
Being the “hotel girl” that I am, I could not wait to see the reopening of the family owned Rosa Alpina, still owned by the lovely Pizzini family but now managed by Aman. The luxe hotel in the heart of San Cassiano now has a sleek Aman vibe, but the warmth of owner Hugh Pizzini and his father who met with us at the hotel, certainly keeps the hotel grounded in its roots.
Speaking of owners, we spent our last dinner at the spectacular historic and quirky hotel La Perla, where the owner met us on the driveway as he does all guests, proudly dressed in his traditional regional garb.
Who knew we were in for such a truly spectacular, memorable and occasion-worthy last night at the hotel’s Michelin star restaurant – Stüa de Michil, helmed by chef Simone Cantafio – the very best in Ladin creative cuisine. The true stars of the show were the service team and most especially the formidable female sommelier who blew us away with her wine picks!! A night for the books and I cannot recommend this restaurant enough!!
Takeaways from the Trail
The Dolomites are not a place you conquer. They are a place you move through with respect and attention. The air is different. So is the pace. Time stretches and sharpens. You work hard, and you are rewarded tenfold. There is quite simply no place like it. I am already planning my return!
TRAVEL NOTES:
- Best Time to Go: Late June to early September for hiking. Late December to March for skiing.
- Recommended Stay: At least 7–10 days to truly experience the towns, the rifugios, and Alta Badia.
- Packing Tip: Bring layers – think 4 seasons in a day, worn-in hiking shoes, foot care, and a bathing suit for the spa. For the rifugios, you will leave your luggage behind and use only a small duffle which is transferred by porters while your own day pack and water.
- RTLM Touch: From rifugio bookings to Michelin reservations, this itinerary was handcrafted to match the rhythm of the mountains. When you’re ready to walk these storied trails, we’ll help you find your way.
Prefer to Ski hut-to-hut? Check out my experience here.
Make It a Journey
A Dolomites adventure pairs beautifully with several nearby destinations that share the same spirit of beauty, culture, and refinement. Each one adds its own chapter to a journey shaped by soaring landscapes, good taste, and the pleasure of contrast.
🥂 Dolomites + Franciacorta
A transition from rugged peaks to vineyard tranquility feels beautifully natural. After days on the trails, arrive in Franciacorta for refined sparkling wines, long lunches, and landscapes shaped by centuries of care. It is a gentle and elegant counterpoint to your alpine adventure.
🧖🏻♀️ Dolomites + Merano
If your body is ready for a softer rhythm, Merano provides the most restorative pause. Thermal waters, crisp alpine air, and a thoughtful wellness culture create a setting that feels both nourishing and deeply serene. It is an intuitive follow up to mountain highs.
🛶 Dolomites + Venice
Venice is a beautiful conclusion to days spent among summits and sweeping views. Art filled palazzos, soulful meals, and that unmistakable Venetian light create a wonderful bookend to your time in the mountains.
For an expertly guided travel experience, Resort to Laura Madrid offers full-service itinerary planning for a select group of clients. We keep our client list intentionally small to ensure every journey receives the care and attention it deserves. Please click here for more information.
Want to do things your way? Check out PERK by RTLM our go-to SELF-BOOKING tool for quick, seamless hotel stays. It’s perfect for those who already know where they want to stay, love to do their own research and travel planning, and just need a fast, VIP-approved reservation.