CANTABRIA: Wild Beauty & Prehistoric Wonder

Leaving the Pyrenees behind, we descended into Cantabria – where every curve in the road seemed to reveal a different mood. Cantabria surprised me at every turn with its blend of rugged coastlines, misty mountains, and unexpectedly lush valleys. Here, prehistoric caves open into emerald hills, and charming villages like Santillana del Mar spill over with history and warmth. Whether wandering along cliffs above the Bay of Biscay or sipping cider in a countryside inn, I found Cantabria to be a peaceful and enchanting escape.

Caves, Caprichos, and Cantabrian Charm

From the Pyrenees, we descended into Cantabria, checking in at the exquisite Palacio Helguera – a charming and sophisticated base from which to explore this richly layered region.

Days of Discovery

Our days were filled with private excursions through the artistic and historical gems of Western Cantabria: the medieval town of Santillana del Mar with its cobbled streets and the majestic Santa Juliana; the Gaudí-designed Capricho in Comillas; and the lush, windswept coast of San Vicente de la Barquera, where rugged cliffs meet blue Atlantic waves.

A highlight was our visit to The Pendo Cave – a cathedral of prehistory, where red-ochre deer dance along stone walls, whispering stories from over 20,000 years ago. At the Altamira Museum, we explored a full-scale replica of one of Europe’s greatest Palaeolithic sanctuaries – a deeply moving experience that evokes both awe and reverence. Photos below were provided by Cuevas Prehistóricas de Cantabria.

Cantabrian Cuisine

Cantabria also delighted our palates. We enjoyed leisurely lunches and unpretentious yet refined regional fare – from grilled fish caught that morning to traditional cocido montañés (a hearty local bean stew). Each meal was a celebration of the region’s coastal bounty and pastoral roots.

We enjoyed several magical dinners at the restaurant at Palacio Helgueras – be sure to reserve in advance in order to not be disappointed.

ASTURIAS: Rugged, Coastal, Lush

Asturias is raw, green, and fiercely proud – a land of dramatic contrasts where the Picos de Europa rise above wild beaches and cider flows like water. Every moment here felt grounded and genuine, whether I was hiking into foggy mountain trails, watching cows graze by seaside cliffs, or tucking into a steaming fabada in a stone village tavern. It’s a region that doesn’t try to impress – but absolutely does.

Flavors of the North

We had a magical lunch at UME in the lovely sea-side Asturias city of Gijon. Elegant and unhurried, with food that honored Asturias’ deep culinary roots.

Touring Asturias with our wonderful guide and local Asturian, Liliana.

Anchovies at Hazas

Anchovies are a hallmark delicacy and world-famous in Cantabria, especially those from the town of Santoña, we visited Hazas artisan anchovy factory in in the town of Lastres in Asturias, where each silvery fish is hand-trimmed and bone-tweezed by artisans who have done this for decades. Their anchovies, and other hand-arranged tapas are among the best I have tasted.

Asturian Sidra: Cider Ritual in a Glass

Asturias has one of the most deep-rooted and celebrated cider (sidra) traditions in the world. This drink is a cornerstone of Asturian identity, gastronomy, and social life.

Asturian cider (sidra natural) is a fermented apple drink, cloudy and still (not carbonated), with about 6% alcohol. It’s made from a blend of dozens of native apple varieties, and it’s typically dry, unfiltered, still unless naturally effervescent, and the traditional method dates back over 1,000 years, and modern-day sidrerías (cider houses) proudly maintain these artisanal practices.

One of the most iconic traditions is “escanciar”, or cider pouring:

The bottle is held high above the head, and the glass low at the waist.
This allows the cider to aerate as it splashes into the glass, enhancing aroma and taste.
Only a small amount (“culín”) is poured at a time and drunk immediately.
This ritual is part performance, part preservation – and every bartender (escanciador) is judged by their pouring skill. Needless to say, I was not offered a job!

Cider is served everywhere, at all hours of the day, and is enjoyed by everyone of all ages and genders. You do not sip it, you throw it back, often accompanied by Chorizo a la Sidra (chorizo cooked in cider)
Queso Cabrales (blue cheese), or Tortos con Picadillo (corn pancakes with sausage).

Tazones, a Hidden Gem on the Asturian Coast, is a picturesque fishing village known for its small, horseshoe-shaped bay, lined with colorful houses and its narrow, cobbled streets filled with seafood restaurants, sidrerias, artisan shops, and history. Naturally a seafood paradise, we gorged on shellfish, clams, and grilled fish and delicious Albariño at La Tortuga.

Picos de Europa: Peaks, Pastures, and Cheese

The Picos de Europa National Park (Spanish: Parque Nacional de los Picos de Europa) is one of Spain’s most dramatic and iconic natural treasures. Located in the north of the country, it spans three autonomous communities: Asturias, Cantabria, and Castile and León, and it offers a breathtaking combination of rugged limestone peaks, glacial lakes, deep gorges, and verdant meadows.

There are no words to express how special this day was, visiting a local family making top Asturias cheese from Cow, Sheep and Goat milk from the animals they look after in these beautiful mountains.

This was an incredible experience to witness the humble means, hard-occupation, and wonderfully happy lives that these lovely Asturian shepherds live, while they work so hard to keep the UNESCO world heritage way of life and cheese-making alive in this modern world. We happened to be visiting on Antonio’s 76th birthday – he wept when we sang to him “Feliz Cumpleaños”. He exclaimed to me in Spanish, “I am old, but I am happy!”

The cheese, “Gamoneu” was delicious, and I tried my hand again at pouring cider with the shepherds!

Final Thoughts

Northern Spain doesn’t ask to be adored, nor does it seek the spotlight. It feels more like a treasured secret passed quietly from one traveler to another. Every mossy path, every elegantly foamed glass of sidra, every cook and chef showing their pride on the plate – welcomed us not with fanfare, but with authenticity and grace.

This journey reminded me why I travel: to feel more alive, more attuned, and more in love with the world. From misty peaks to sun-dappled shores, ancient art to modern gastronomy, this two-week journey through Northern Spain was a lesson in depth, detail, and delicious discovery.