A FASCINATING JOURNEY THROUGH THE REALM OF ARCTIC GIANTS

I am going to admit, this trip was a little bit outside of my comfort zone for various reasons, but I am so thankful that I pulled on my arctic gear and hit the tundra with gusto.

Polar Bears are solitary, beautiful, and fierce giants that migrate North for the winter, awaiting the freezing of Hudson Bay so that they can cross the ice to hunt for seals.

We witnessed mothers and cubs, males sparring, and countless bears roaming the snowy tundra right past our cabins. The cabins were rustic but unbelievably comfortable. The short migration season runs from October to November and with limited spots, it is important to plan early. This experience is best done in a private group of 8 so that the camp can be used as an exclusive takeover and the experience is tailored to your group’s interests and personality! It was truly magical!

GETTING THERE

Winnipeg’s James Armstrong Richardson International Airport offers nonstop service from major hubs like Toronto, Vancouver, and Calgary, with frequent connections to the U.S. via Chicago and Minneapolis.

We flew to Minneapolis, further north to Winnipeg, north again to Churchill, and finally north again on a charter flight to Arviat, a remote area on the Hudson Bay otherwise known as “Polar Bear Alley.”

From here we flew a charter single-engine Otter to the Polar Bear Cabins — four cabins plus a dining cabin — located on a very remote area along the shores of Hudson Bay aptly named Polar Bear Alley. Within minutes of arriving, we began to witness the beauty of the “Great Polar Bear Migration” counting a total of 44 polar bears during our four-day stay.

THE SAFARI

Winnipeg
We began our adventure overnighting in Winnipeg, which offers an excellent restaurant scene and the remarkable yet sobering, Canadian Human Rights Museum.

Churchill
The next morning we flew from Winnipeg, further north to Churchill, Manitoba – “Polar Bear Capital of the World” and the gateway to the Arctic. Located on Hudson Bay with a human population of 900, in this town – polar bears outnumber humans by two to one.

The rule here is that all homes and cars stay unlocked so that people walking can always duck in somewhere when they see a polar bear in town. The town kids trick-or-treated for Halloween last night followed by the Polar Bear Patrol.

Fancy a cocktail? Try “Polar Bear Piss” – a local favorite!

NEXT STOP – POLAR BEAR ALLEY

On our second day, we transferred to a remote airstrip where we boarded a private chartered flight to the heart of polar bear country. We flew from Churchill in Manitoba to Inuit-owned land in Nunavut, where we would make our home for the next four days. 

Home sweet home at latitude 60.22 north, 94.70 west.

Upon landing we were escorted to our Polar Bear Cabins – home for the next few days, and strategically located to offer unparalleled access to polar bear sightings. The cabins, though basic, are very comfortable with all of the necessities for a cozy stay, in what feels like the middle of nowhere.

We had incredibly busy days in “Polar Bear Alley,” where the polar bears were eagerly waiting for Hudson Bay to freeze so they could cross over and hunt for seals. When we arrived, the calendar marked 110 days since the bears had eaten, and they wouldn’t have access to food until the ice formed on the bay. This growing challenge, driven by climate change, is a crucial issue in the upcoming election.

Over the following days, we captured unforgettable moments with polar bears, Arctic foxes, snowy owls, and a host of other wildlife. Every encounter kept us warm with excitement, and on our toes, immersed in the stark beauty of this icy wilderness.

A GREAT CHEF MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE

Chef Meesh turns “roughing it” in a remote cabin on Polar Bear Alley into an unforgettable culinary experience. From Arctic Char and traditional Inuit caribou stew to homemade breads, decadent desserts, and exquisite ramens and soups, every dish was a delightful creature comfort. And let’s not forget the smoked salmon eggs Benedict—each meal was a true masterpiece!

Meal time was always a big treat!

ARCTIC ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

Each day brought a new surprise, with our cabins nestled along the migration route, offering close-up encounters with polar bears and other Arctic wildlife as they passed through. Our camp was enclosed by an electric fence, providing just a small barrier between us and the curious — yet fierce — bears.

As the old bear adage goes “Black, fight back. Brown, lie down. White, good night!”

Smaller wildlife, like Arctic foxes and Arctic hares, also wandered through camp, adding to the magic of our stay.

This safari is a photographer’s dream, with abundant opportunities to capture iconic wildlife, all set against the backdrop of a stunning Arctic landscape.

DREAM TEAM

The team taking care of us was exceptional:

• Dave: Our expedition leader, a professional photographer, and a naturalist with deep expertise in Polar Bear behavior.
• Moses and Cam: Two invaluable local Inuit guides, whose knowledge and experience were indispensable.
• Scott: The hotel manager and true jack-of-all-trades, keeping everything running smoothly.
• Meesh: An outstanding chef who spoiled us with delicious, home-cooked meals three times a day.

Under Dave’s leadership, and with the guidance of the Inuit experts, we followed a well-established safety protocol for bear encounters. The hierarchy started with a firm voice, followed by a whistle, and then a loud cap gun. In the rarest of situations, firearms were available as a last resort—though we all hoped they’d never be necessary.

In four days, we witnessed 44 polar bears—passing by, playing, and showing their curiosity as they made their way north along Hudson Bay. It was surreal!

When polar bears were not making their way alongside our cabins, we immersed ourselves in activities like short hikes across the tundra along the shoreline of Hudson Bay, deepening our connection to this pristine environment.

We learned about life in Nunavut from our Inuit guides.

And even engaged in a few rounds of Arctic Corn Hole.

NORTHERN LIGHTS

For many, the highlight is witnessing the magical Northern Lights—a true spectacle under the open Arctic sky. On our last evening, we were treated to a galactic dance up above, right outside our cabins. It was the perfect ending to our safari.

BACK TO CHURCHILL

In the morning, we took a few final photos before flying back to Churchill to embark on a private Polar Bear Safari, exploring the area for more tracking adventures. The next day, we departed for home, happy and full of memories to cherish for a lifetime.

NOT YOUR AVERAGE SAFARI

With expert guides leading the way, this safari is perfect for those seeking a rare and intimate polar bear experience, blending adventure, comfort, and unparalleled natural beauty. Highly recommended for photographers, wildlife enthusiasts, and anyone looking to experience the raw power and majesty of the Arctic wilderness. A trip of a lifetime for sure!!