I used to travel to Brazil annually for five consecutive years when I worked for Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts. It was a wonderful place to visit and do business, and I made such close friends with so many Brazilians in the industry. I fell in love with the people and the fantastic cities of Rio and Sao Paulo. I was always invited to stay and explore some of the beautiful coastal areas, but with young kids at home and a demanding work schedule, I never had the chance. Yet, traveling back to Brazil for a holiday has been on my wish list, and I finally made it to one of the most important states in this massive and diverse country – Bahia.
The birthplace of samba and capoeira, Bahia is the country’s pulsing epicenter of Afro-Brazilian culture. So while many flock to Rio and its famed Copacabana Beach to soak up the sun, those seeking paradise head north to Bahia to soak up a warm, vibrant culture and absolutely breathtaking beaches. Bahia is a state in Northeast Brazil with the largest coastline in the country.
Txai Resort – Itacaré
We started in Itacaré at the stunning Txai resort, a Relais & Chateau property on one of the world’s most breathtaking coastlines.
Guest rooms at the Txai resort are located near the beach and pool or in the hills with fantastic views.
Our bungalow was poolside, which we really liked because it was close to the beach, restaurant, bar, and fitness center. However, if you want more privacy, it’s best to have a hilltop accommodation.
Our first meal in Brazil – yes we were this happy and the joy kept on giving!
This fabulous Relais & Chateau offers fresh local foods that will impress. I love Brazilian food and could live on the freshly roasted hearts of palm! Bahian cuisine is characterized by the generous use of malagueta chili peppers and dendê oil extracted from an African palm, seafood, coconut milk, banana, okra, fruits, and cacao.
However, the show’s star at Txai Itacaré is the beach itself. I have traveled all over the world, and this may be the most gorgeous, natural, and pristine coastline I have ever experienced.
The hotel’s location on a massive coconut Atlantic rainforest farm, laced by miles and miles of delicate white sand beaches, is breathtaking. We walked for hours and barely encountered another soul.
HEAVEN! My kind of beach lunch!!
For those wanting to get off the resort, Itacaré is a nearby fishing port and a trendy town known for water-based adventure sports, including rafting and canoeing, and many cafes, restaurants, and bars. But it is pretty hard to leave the Txai!!
Trancoso
Next stop: the vibrant and bohemian town of Trancoso, which is very authentic yet super trendy! Why else did Anderson Cooper fall in love with this area and build a stunning home right in the middle of town?
Yes, it attracts jet-setters from Naomi Campbell to Beyoncé, but there is nothing fancy about Trancoso. What makes it special is its simplicity—small boutiques, restaurants, and tiny hotels. No big chains or developments have spoiled Trancoso, not yet, at least.
The video of the town square is case and point (a few fireworks going on due to the festival celebrating the patron Saint of the Sea)
Uxua Casa Hotel
We stayed at the uber chic yet super simple Uxua Casa and loved its location right off the main square. Guests get to know each other, and the staff knows who each guest is and in which accommodation they are staying.
The Uxua Casa Hotel felt like a jungle escape and was breathtaking. In our few nights at Uxua, we felt right at home and like we escaped into the forest. This luxury historical site was the perfect place to stay, and it allowed us to explore Trancoso!
The kitchen team just like all the staff, made you feel as it you were visting a friend’s home.
Casa Da Árvore
Our beautiful room or really our little house, was Ivory House, a two story indoor and outdoor jungle retreat.
A little video goes a long way to get a feel for the accommodations –
Then, there is the main square, called the Quadrado—a grassy square in the center of town with a white church dotted with colored buildings housing local restaurants, cafes, and shops. It is the center of the energetic Bahamian vibe that people flock to in Trancoso.
And yes kids play soccer on the Quadrado just as in Beyonce’s Blue music video
Then there was the beach, not nearly as idyllic as the beach in Itacaré at the Txai but a lively scene, perfect for people watching, sunning, and, of course, some delicious beach food and caipirinhas.
Festa de lemanja
We arrived unbeknownst to us just in time for one of Trancosos biggest parties!
On February 2, a crowd of the faithful and the curious came together at the Quadrado and Trancoso beaches for a tribute to the goddess of the sea. We were in the thick of this party, which literally went on for several days.
There were processions, music, fireworks, and bands (that went on until 5 a.m.), but also the most solemn celebrations, which included offerings to the goddess of the sea, including flowers, perfumes, candles, and treats.
The music and ceremony was beautiful and literally everyone participates!
For those who want to discover a stunning beach away from the crowds, yes, that also exists in Trancoso. We had a magical day at an absolutely idyllic private club—heaven on earth!
And a delicious beach lunch was served in our cabana. You can not beat this –
I miss my daily fresh coconut water and the joyous people!! I will be back. So much more ground to cover in big beautiful Brazil!
