Croatia & Montenegro: All Along the Adriatic

MONTENEGRO– Wild Beauty (UNESCO: Kotor)

It takes a few flight connections to get to some of the wonderful, newly formed countries of the former Yugoslavia along the Adriatic coast, but it most certainly is worth the trip! We started in gorgeous Montenegro where we overcame our jet lag at the sleek and luxurious Regent Porto Montenegro overlooking some of the largest private yachts in the world! Our first wonderful meals of the trip were enjoyed here – the freshest seafood, lovely produce, spectacular wines, and delicious olive oils!

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Welcome to the Regent Porto Montenegro
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The Terrace at The Regent Porto Montenegro
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I love the Nautical Theme through out the rooms – their residential style rooms with kitchenettes are perfect for families!
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Yachts Galore from all over the world, but many from Russia
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Even the tiny sleek boats are stunning!

Budva

Budva is considered to be one of the oldest settlements in the Balkans. This ancient town lies on a little island that was linked to land by a sandbar and in time became a peninsula. We kicked off our first day with a walk around the 15th century ramparts and medieval fortifications. Inside the walls, we found a combination of narrow streets and little squares, with superb monuments of the different Mediterranean cultures. Later, we visited Kotor, home-town of the famous sailors and traders of Boka Bay. Kotor’s architecture, a post-modern mix of the various epochs and its position at the bottom of the sharp cliffs of the Lovcen Mountain, makes it different from any other Mediterranean town. The Old City is a well preserved urbanization typical of the Middle Ages, built between the 12th and 14th century. Highlights included the Cathedral of St. Trifun and the Maritime Museum where visitors admire portraits of the famous captains, models of old galleys and sail boats and other artifacts from rich heritage of Kotor.

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DUBROVNIK – Pearl of Mediterranean (UNESCO)

We continued on with our driver to the absolutely stunning walled-city of Dubrovnik and were lucky enough to check in to the charming Villa Dubrovnik!

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Villa Dubrovnik has the same owner as the famous Capri Palace in Ana Capri, Amalfi.
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Guests met by the extraordinary Roberto at the front door will feel right at home!
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You can enter a small elevator at street level or take the dramatic staircase to the hotel’s multiple levels that hug the cliffs at sea’s edge
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What fate – we arrived just in time for late afternoon cocktails!
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The restaurants overlook the water and the natural island paradise beyond
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Isabella approves!
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The Old City is just a 10 minute walk past very pretty mansions
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Entering the walled City of Dubrovnik
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The city gates are still guarded today.
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The entire town of Dubrovnik is UNESCO world heritage
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Cocktails and Dinner at restaurant “360 degrees” is a must for the view and the food!
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Scallops and Foie Gras
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Shrimp and Local Prosciutto
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Fish
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Pork
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We returned to the hotel to watch Croatia win their Euro Cup Match Against Spain – we enjoyed it with the happy staff!
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Do mornings get any better than this?
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Local cured Salmon Eggs Benedict
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How good fried eggs and bacon can be!!

Today we met up with our expert guide Yelena for a fabulous walking tour of Dubrovnik, one of the most beautiful stone-built cities in the world. An important maritime port and a one-time state, it has always been a cultural metropolis. As one of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Dubrovnik owes its special charm to the historic monuments which testify to its rich history. Some highlights included the Franciscan monastery of the “Order of Friars Minors” that preserves one of the three oldest pharmacies in Europe, the Orlando Column, the Sponza Palace, the Church of St. Blasius, the patron-saint of the town, the Rector’s Palace, the magnificent structure of the dukes of Dubrovnik, and the Cathedral of the Virgin Mary with a treasury containing the originals by Tiziano and Rafaelo.

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One thing that I hear consistently from clients of Resort to Laura Madrid is how fabulous our private guides are – many become life long friends to our clients! They certainly enliven the local experience for them whilst traveling!  Here are a few of our special guides in Croatia:

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Yelena was so bright and so much fun!
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Elisio was not my guide, but he was the guide for some dear friends and clients, and I ran into him in the market!
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There are great little places along the wall to stop for a cold beer and a view.
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Some of us are happier to find a candy store!
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The Public Beach is great for people watching but we loved relaxing at our private beach at Villa Dubrovnik!

Dubrovnik is worth three nights for sure.  This would allow time to walk the length of the city walls, kayak over to one of the islands, and to take the funicular to the top!

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A wonderful place to relax at Villa Dubrovnik after  a day of touring
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A delicious little alcove to swim at Villa Dubrovnik – the water is strong and chilly so be ready to be invigorated!
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Some may prefer doing flips at the pool!
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Meals in Croatia are all a treat!  Such spectacular food and at a much more attractive price point than you will generally find in Italy and France. Here we are at Taverna Posat.

Ston

Today we depart with Yelena for Ston to taste the freshest and most incredible oysters I have ever had anywhere, anytime in the world!  With our fun guide Yelena, we were met where we board a local man’s boat and travel to his family’s private island for a very special surprise!

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Oyster traps set in a bay of the most pristine water
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We are shown how the oysters are grown

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Oysters – Welcome!
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Arriving to our island for the afternoon.
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Our own private picnic awaits
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Daughter and father graciously host us for lunch.
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Shucking oysters.
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We are beyond excited!
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First Bite! Never an oyster in my life quite like this one!
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This is the family’s homemade wine and grappa – scrumptious!!
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Yelena and I enjoy a cup of homemade grappa!
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Isabella is a sport!
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Oh my, no one told me to save room for the most incredible mussells with garlic and wine. There are only 4 of us!!
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We do justice to this incredible meal – freshness like I have never experienced!
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Hard to leave this place! What an afternoon!

After departing Ston Bay, we stopped for a visit to the incredible walled fortress of Ston town and the salt mines. Ston’s famous 5 kilometer Medieval stone defensive walls are the largest in Europe and protected the precious salt pans that contributed to Dubrovnik Republic’s wealth. The history of the salt works in Ston goes back for more than 4,000 years. It is the oldest salt mine in Europe and one of the the oldest still working mines in the world!

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The lovely stone walls of Ston
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Visiting the oldest salt pans and mines of Europe

HVAR – The Sunniest Place in Europe

After quite a long day of driving, a ferry and another car ride, we arrived to the charming but lively island of Hvar.

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Hvar Harbour
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Hvar Main Square
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Sunset Cocktails
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Hvar by night
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Gariful for diner – great views on the water and lively!
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Best Lobster linguine with the delicious Teran red wines.
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For lunch we took the local ferry to the smaller island of Palmizana
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A lovely place for lunch – reserve in advance for the terrific beach front table under its own wooden canopy
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Happy camper with a glass of the refreshing and dry Malvasia grape
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A Croat beer for Gil
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Excellent service and beautiful fish to choose from
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Local octopus in white wine and garlic – this is the dish!

The best way to get to and from the islands is on a private boat.  Here we are departing  Hvar for our 90 minute ride to Split.

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Arriving to Spit

SPLIT – 1700 Years of a Living Monument (UNESCO)

The first inhabitant of Split was the Roman emperor Diocletian who started to build his palace in this friendly bay around 293 AD. After his abdication he withdrew to this luxurious palace to enjoy the rest of his days. The following turbulent centuries made the palace into a town first populated by the citizens of the nearby Salona, fleeing before Avars and Slavs. The town overgrew the walls of the palace and its authorities kept changing – from Croatian kings, Hungarian and Venetian administration, to French rulers and Austro- Hungarian monarchy.

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The Old town of Split
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One of the bellowers from Diocletians Palace

We walked with our guide through this living monument and all its magnificent sights – the basement halls, the main square of the Palace, the Cathedral of St. Domnius, and the temples of the Palaces with its many monuments from antiquity, to the Middle Ages, Renaissance, and Baroque periods.

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We drove to the outside of Split where we had stunning views of the inlets where many pirates hid before and after attacking large ships. We headed to the small village of Gata to enjoy a special lunch in the home of a lovely local lady named Anka.

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Arriving to the home of Anka
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Anka is welcoming Gil, Isabella and I along with our fabulous guide Linda
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The amazing ANKA – she is one of 6 women in Croatia who has the authority/ability to make the UNESCO designated food – Soparnika
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The beautiful simple home of Anka
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Swiss Chard and all locally grown foods make up her cooking
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The fire pit with chimney in Anka’s kitchen and the wooden board to roll her dough for Soparnika
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A lovely welcome of local cheese and prociutto and family made cherry and walnut brandies!
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Anka has been perfecting the fire for hours

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Rolling the dough
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This is an art in itself
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Fresh swiss chard from the garden along with onions and garlic
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Top layer of the Soparnika goes on
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Enjoying some home made cherry brandy with our guide, Linda.
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This is hard work for Anka, she is about to put her savory pastry on the fire and cover it with hot ash
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Isabella checking it all out!
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Surprise! Aka has also been cooking a dish of Peka all day under the embers – a hearty dish made of pork, veal and chicken with spectacular potatoes
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The lid comes off of the Peka
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Peka made with chicken, pork, veal and potatoes
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Lunch is served at Anka’s home
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All good meals start with a glass of wine!
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The Soparnika is also ready – the actual cutting and shape of each piece is also designated UNESCO – there is a specific way that it must be done every time.
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How beautiful is this! Topped with Croatian Olive Oil and salt – oh my!

 

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Spending the afternoon with Anka has been so unique and special not to mention DELICIOUS!

Back to Split for the night, and where to stay but in Diocletian’s Palace at the 7 room Hotel Vestibul Palace! Each room is unique and below the court yard where breakfast is served.

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The life of the modern day city takes place in and around the former Palace of Diocletian – what a view!
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Bokeria – A great choice for your dinner!

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How lucky were we to be in Split for the Croatia vs. Portugal match in the Euro Cup finals. Croatia lost, but this lovely man with whom we shared a table in the bar went to his restaurant next door to bring us the most gorgeous local prosciutto and cheese! LOVE THIS PLACE!

Plitvice National Park – Beauty Unspoilt

Croatia has stunning national parks, lakes and waterfalls.  It takes some driving to get there but truly beautiful.  Here are are at Plitvice National Park. The oldest and largest National Park in Croatia, Plitvice is located in Central Croatia close to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina.

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The Istrian Peninsula – Mystical Land of Gastronomy

This region has always attracted those who consider gastronomy as one of the most important reasons for traveling – namely me! The alluring gastronomic character of Istria consists not only of the exquisite Mediterranean seafood of the coast but also of the products of the inland’s gardens, orchards, and vineyards.

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Every wine we had in Croatia was exceptional.
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I would come back to Kantinon in Rovijn, just for this appetizer platter!

As you drive through the rugged and hilly terrain you will come to the village of Livade, one of the most important centers of truffle farming in Europe. Until recently the Istrian white truffle was unknown on the world’s stage of luxury gastronomy. Only those who are the true connoisseurs of this magical fungus come to visit the small corner of the world from which this delicacy originates.

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Hot chocolate never hurts!

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A very artsy little town!
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Always an inviting place to sit
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You may want to have them ship a box home of the delicious local products!

We continued towards the charming village of Momjan for a private wine tasting at Kabola Winery. Throughout the past, Momjan area was known as one of the most productive wine regions in Istria. It even provided the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy with wine. We tasted many of these famous wines made with the grapes muscat, malmsey, and teran.

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All Local!

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We enjoyed a private truffle hunting demonstration with the truffle hunter and his dogs – this may have been Isabella’s favorite day!

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One of the most important restaurants for truffles is Restaurant Zigante. It’s a must for those wanting every course made with the local delicacy!

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A model of the largest truffles ever found is in the restaurant

After the truffle hunting demonstration we went to the medieval ruins of the town of Motovun to taste some local products made with truffles.

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Truffles in everything!

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Typical Istrian Village
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Istrian Walled Village

Meanwhile back in Rovijn, this is the charming and special authentic city where we stayed while touring the Istrian Peninsula.

We stayed in a very modern, largish luxury hotel – not what I would normally select, but this actually is the perfect spot to unwind after several days of touring, staying in quaint boutique hotels, and moving from place to place. Hotel Lone and Monte Mullini are terrific for the large modern rooms and bathrooms (the kind you just won’t find while staying in a palace dating to 200 AD)! The beach, spa, gym and modern conveniences were all much appreciated, and better yet, the old town Rovijn is just a short walk along the beach! Enjoy the bars, restaurants, and village life of one of our favorite towns of the trip!

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How cute is this stairway bar in Rovijn?

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Will miss this cafe life!

Now on to Southern Italy!

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