From Bonifacio’s limestone cliffs to the wild Cap Corse peninsula and the citadel of Calvi.
After eight days aboard the BANG! yacht, sailing between Sardinia and Corsica, we arrived in Bonifacio beneath its enormous white limestone cliffs. The old town is perched so high above the water that, from the boat, you find yourself wondering how those buildings have stayed put for centuries.
We spent our final night onboard in the harbor, then traded the boat for a car. Six nights and three hotels lay ahead, taking us from Porto-Vecchio in the south to Cap Corse and finally Calvi on the northwest coast. There’s also one southern Corsican estate I’ve already earmarked for next time.
Distances on a map can be deceptive in Corsica. We allowed plenty of time for the mountain roads and for the villages that tempted us to stop along the way.
Arriving in Bonifacio
Bonifacio is quite a sight from the water. Houses line the edge of sheer limestone cliffs, while the harbor is tucked into a narrow inlet below. We explored the old town during our final evening aboard BANG!, then disembarked the following morning.
I would include Bonifacio on any southern Corsica itinerary. If you have the chance to arrive by sea, all the better. You can read more about that part of our trip in A Yacht Week Through Sardinia & Corsica aboard BANG!.
Sartène
We took the inland route toward Porto-Vecchio, stopping in Sartène, a hilltop town of granite buildings and narrow streets. Our itinerary included a guided visit to the old town before we continued east. Sartène fits easily into the drive from Bonifacio and gives you a few hours away from the coast.
Domaine de Murtoli | Near Sartène
MOOD: Old stone houses. Wide-open country. Days without a plan.
On my list for next time
Domaine de Murtoli is already on my list for a return to Corsica. Between Sartène and Bonifacio, restored shepherds’ houses are scattered across a vast estate of farmland and countryside, with the sea close by. I love the idea of settling into one of the stone houses for a few days and exploring from there.
The estate has its own beach, along with horseback riding and golf. I’d be especially interested in the food and wine, and in seeing how the working farm finds its way onto the table. This feels perfect for a few nights, with plenty of time left unscheduled.
Perfect For: Couples, families and groups of friends who want the privacy and freedom of their own home.
Casadelmar | Porto-Vecchio
MOOD: Architectural drama. A warm embrace. The art of slowing down.
Casadelmar is set among the trees, its striking architecture opening onto the Gulf of Porto-Vecchio; the sea sparkles from almost every vantage point.
From the bellman and reception team to the General Manager, everyone made us feel like part of the family. That warm hospitality continued throughout our stay, with service that was impeccable from start to finish.
Our room was spacious and bright, with clean lines that suited the architecture. A sense of calm settles over you almost immediately. After a week at sea, it was just what we needed to find our feet on land again.
Breakfast was the best part of each morning. The buffet offered fresh fruit, homemade breads and pastries, freshly pressed juices and Corsican specialties, alongside plenty of healthful choices, all served with that panoramic outlook across the gulf.
Don’t miss Casadelmar Plage. Arrange the complimentary boat trip to the hotel’s sister property, reserve a table for lunch and book loungers for a few hours of swimming. I would also spend one evening dining in Porto-Vecchio and keep another free for Casadelmar’s two-Michelin-star restaurant.
Perfect For: Couples, sophisticated families with well-behaved children.
A Day in Southern Corsican Wine Country
We spent a day visiting Domaine Saparale and Domaine Petra Bianca, exploring Corsica through its wines.
I always enjoy meeting producers when I travel. At one of the estates, we spotted a Passeport des Vins de Corse, which immediately had me thinking about the vineyards we might visit on a return trip.
If wine interests you, set aside a day while you’re staying in southern Corsica. Arrange tastings in advance and leave enough time between appointments to take in the countryside.
Misíncu | Cap Corse
MOOD: Wild Corsica. Long swims. Wine with a story.
Cap Corse is gorgeous. The road north winds through the mountains and past small coastal villages, with the Mediterranean appearing around the bends.
Misíncu is near Cagnano, beside an expansive beach on a protected bay. The sea was clear and warm enough to linger in. Although the beach is public, the hotel has its own loungers, so we could settle in for a few hours.
Our suite had mountains and sunset on one side, the Mediterranean and sunrise on the other. I loved waking up to the sea, then watching the light change over the mountains later in the day.
We had a tasting with the hotel’s sommelier, who introduced us to Corsican wines from across the island. After our vineyard visits in the south, it was interesting to hear more about the producers and varieties through his selections.
The spa was another highlight of our stay. I had an excellent Biologique Recherche massage and facial, and I loved how the wellness area opens onto the surrounding landscape. Alongside the treatment rooms, there’s a sauna, hammam, sensory shower and ice fountain, plus a pool overlooking the stream and wild maquis. The spa also works with Nucca, a Corsican skincare brand that uses local botanicals. I’d happily make time for another treatment on a return visit.
Nearby villages gave us the option to head out for dinner at a local restaurant, a nice change after a day at the beach.
Perfect For: Couples keen to explore Cap Corse. Misíncu’s multi-bedroom villas also suit families or small groups traveling together.
La Villa Calvi | Calvi
MOOD: Citadel views. Clay-court mornings. Negronis at dusk.
La Villa Calvi is a stunner. The gardens are meticulously maintained, contemporary art appears throughout the property, and the hotel looks out over Calvi from the hills high above town.
From up here, the sea stretches out below, with Calvi’s ancient citadel crowning the town across the bay. Our suite had a spacious balcony, where I was very happy to spend time taking it all in.
I was equally happy to discover a clay tennis court, Pilates studio, e-bikes, gym and lap pool. I love a hotel where I can indulge in the food and wine and still keep up my usual fitness routine.
Dinner was a highlight. We watched the sunset over Calvi with Negronis in hand, listening to the resident DJ before sitting down to a superb meal prepared by the hotel’s chef from Lake Como. It was a fun evening, and one I would happily repeat.
For a beach day, book a table at U Cantiu for a seafood lunch, then stay for a swim. I would arrange it ahead of time in summer.
Perfect For: Couples, groups of friends and families who enjoy art, good food and an active holiday. There is plenty to keep you busy here, though I’d be tempted to spend another afternoon on that balcony.
The RTLM Take: Make It a Two-Island Trip
Corsica pairs beautifully with Sardinia. Start with a few days exploring Sardinia’s hotels, beaches, and inland villages, then continue to Corsica for the road trip from Bonifacio to Calvi.
If you have a week to spend on the water, consider linking the islands by yacht. We sailed aboard BANG! through the Costa Smeralda and La Maddalena Archipelago before crossing to Corsica and arriving in Bonifacio by sea.
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