Some people eat to have the energy to ski, while others ski to work up an appetite. If you veer more towards the latter, there can be few better destinations to buy a lift pass for than Baqueira Beret, in Spain’s Val d’Aran. High in the Catalan Pyrenees, this resort is a cluster of four linked ski areas – Baqueira, Beret, Bonaigua, and Baciver. While you will see some images of me and my family on the slopes, the fact that Baqueira is one of the best food scenes of any ski resort in the world is evident throughout my recap, as I could not help but capture the area’s high gastronomy.
This enormous ski area offers nearly 100 miles of pistes and 35 lifts spread over approximately 10 square miles. Long patronized by the Spanish royal family, Baqueira attracts primarily Spanish and French visitors due to its proximity to Toulouse and Bordeaux. For North American skiers, there is a false perception that a European ski holiday will be expensive. However, this could not be further from the truth as, in general, lift tickets in Europe are a fraction of the cost of those at a top US resort. In Baqueira, lift tickets that allow you to ski all four mountains run around $50 per day compared to around $250 per day in top ski destinations in the Western United States.
From Madrid, we took the high-speed train towards Barcelona, disembarking in Lleira, where we connected to a local train and continued the journey up a scenic mountain route to Pobla de Segur. From there, it was a 90-minute drive, and we reached Baqueira. Total travel time is about 6 hours from Madrid or 5 hours from Barcelona. If flying is preferred, flying into Andorra and taking a car service to the resort is another option. Traveling with my husband, son, and nephew, we opted for the more relaxed and scenic train option from Madrid.
Due to its elevation, Baqueira has fairly reliable snow and is a good bet, with ski season running from November to April. Paired with an excellent lift system, outstanding ski instruction, and ski runs for all levels, the resort appeals and caters to a broad range of skiers, snowboarders, and even canine friends…..
However, the best thing about European skiing is the relaxed vibe, the fun ápres scene, and the importance of gastronomy, including long, boozy lunches. The restaurant scene on and off the slopes is absolutely incredible, with gorgeous foods found at every stop at a fraction of the cost of US ski resorts and a much better value than its French and Swiss counterparts.
From fine dining to rustic and cozy traditional restaurants to slope-side “cafeterias,” this area caters to a demanding palate – you won’t be disappointed nor leave hungry! Spain and the Pyrenees are indeed meat-centric, but gorgeous fish and seafood also abound. The resort’s kitchens are still closely in touch with the valley’s farmers, cheesemakers, and gardeners, so produce really shines here! Wine is on a whole different level, and you will be spoiled for choice with unreal value!
Food on the slopes is worth the trip alone. I am talking about ski in “cafeterias” on the mountain. Here are a few of the lunches we skied into for our mid-day break…
Cafeteria 2200
Aged beef is grilled and served with beautiful salads and Spanish reds.
Moet & Chandon Lounge
Fantastic vibe with DJs, bubbles, and beautiful tapas
Cinco Jotas
This was a most civilized meal on the mountain with grilled peppers and egg plant, the best salad I have ever had, and grilled squid.
After a day of skiing, a night out for a fantastic meal is an activity in itself. This is Spain, so the dinner hour starts around 10pm. Options from fondue and raclette, to tapas and pinxtos, to fine dining, and picturesque rustic cabins in the nearby mountain towns are all options!
Ticolet in Baqueira
This was one of my favorite meals, of many, the freshest local fish including hake, sturgeon, and tuna with mouthwatering fried artichoke hearts which are ubiquitous in Spain.
Eth Cerer de Montadi in Salardu
This was our family’s favorite night out, and We were welcomed into this spectacular old farmhouse, which previously housed livestock, now a family-run with some of the best meats we have had anywhere. The meal starts with an assortment of DELICIOUS tapas and appetizers, including this melt-in-your-mouth deer carpaccio. It was an epic night!
“Es de Don Joan” in Unha
This tiny restaurant was an even more rustic local restaurant in one of the charming historic towns of the area. Another special meal filled with local Aranese specialities.
ÁPRES
And then there is ápres ski fun. While I would not say that this area has the same level of ápres of Courchevel or Zermatt, there was no shortage of DJ’s, cocktails, and people watching. Below we had a couple of great after ski days at Bar 1500.
LODGING –
Where to stay? The area has many wonderful private homes and chalets, and there is a more residential feel than some other ski areas in Europe. There is not a vast selection of top luxury hotel brands, so choices are more limited. We stayed at the AC Baqueira, which is a Marriott Autograph Collection property. The service was beyond expectation and impressive. Most especially attentive was the concierge team – Gloria and Abel – who made planning a stay in a destination I had yet to experience very easy. The front desk team was also very attentive. We enjoyed the spa, with complimentary hot and cold water circuits, and I had the best Thai massage and Japanese facial I have had outside of those countries! Our suite was spacious and comfortable. Breakfast was delicious. The location is within walking distance of the gondola. Guests can get suited and booted at the ski shop on site and then find their equipment in the lockers located at the gondola the next morning. I will admit that getting on the slopes the first day was a bit confusing until one understood the process, but it was mostly smooth sailing from there. European skiing does require more work than skiing in North America; the rewards far outweigh what Americans might call the hassles. We had a fantastic time, and I will most definitely be back. So many of my clients are traveling to European cities over the holidays, so why not tag on a few days on the slopes to keep things fresh and active?! Do as the locals do, go where the locals go, immerse yourself! Ski the Pyrenees!
