Three Days, Three Michelin Stars, and a Birthday Worth the Trip
My mother-in-law celebrates her 80th birthday this year, and with family roots in Extremadura, it felt like the right moment to explore a region of Spain I had long wanted to know better. We set off from Madrid for three days filled with history, exceptional food, excellent wines, and one very special birthday celebration.
Stretching along Spain’s western border with Portugal, Extremadura is home to some of the country’s most important historic towns, along with a culinary tradition that is every bit as impressive. Acorn-fed Ibérico ham, torta cheeses, pimentón from La Vera, and centuries of winemaking all play a role here.
It is also the birthplace of several of Spain’s most famous explorers, including Francisco Pizarro, Hernán Cortés, and Hernando de Soto. Roman settlements, medieval walls, and Renaissance palaces are woven throughout the landscape, yet the region remains remarkably authentic and refreshingly uncrowded.
For our family, it gave us the perfect backdrop for celebrating Shirley and reconnecting with a piece of her family history.
Cáceres
After an easy drive from Madrid, we arrived in Cáceres in time for lunch before setting out to explore the city.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cáceres possesses one of the most complete medieval quarters in Spain. Roman, Islamic, Gothic, and Renaissance influences appear throughout the city, creating an architectural record of the many cultures that shaped the region.
We began in Plaza Mayor before making our way through the Arch of the Star and into the old city. Stone palaces, churches, towers, and noble residences line the narrow streets, many of them unchanged over the centuries.
A guided tour helped bring the city’s history to life and provided valuable context for the buildings and monuments surrounding us. Cáceres is compact and easy to explore on foot, making it an ideal place to spend an afternoon wandering and taking it all in.
Atrio Restaurante Hotel: La Casa
Our home for the next two nights was Atrio, a Relais & Châteaux property on Plaza de San Mateo, in the heart of Cáceres’ historic quarter.
Owned by José Polo and Chef Toño Pérez, Atrio has evolved over more than three decades into a collection of hospitality, dining, and cultural projects rooted in the city of Cáceres. Alongside the three Michelin-starred restaurant, the group now includes the hotel, Torre de Sande, and the recently restored Palacio Paredes Saavedra.
As with the finest Relais & Châteaux properties, there is a strong sense of place here. Contemporary architecture blends comfortably into the medieval surroundings, while the interiors feel elegant, comfortable, and thoughtfully designed. José and Toño refer to the hotel simply as “La Casa,” a reflection of the hospitality that defines the experience.
We spent two nights at Atrio, which allowed ample time to enjoy both Cáceres and nearby Trujillo.
Palacio Paredes Saavedra
The newest addition to Atrio’s group of properties, Palacio Paredes Saavedra, offers eleven suites within a beautifully reawakened historic palace and provides another distinctive way to experience Cáceres’ old town.
Fundación Atrio Cáceres
One aspect of Atrio that deserves mention is how invested it is in Cáceres itself.
Through Fundación Atrio Cáceres, José Polo and Toño Pérez support initiatives in culture, heritage conservation, and education, all aimed at the town’s continued development. The foundation reflects a long-standing commitment to preserving and promoting Cáceres’ architectural and cultural legacy.
That connection between Atrio and Cáceres runs through the whole experience. The hotel, restaurant, and cultural initiatives all feel tied to the town’s history and its future.
The Birthday Dinner at Atrio: 3-Star Michelin Dining
The evening of Shirley’s birthday brought us back to Atrio for dinner.
The dining room is elegant without feeling formal, allowing the cuisine to remain the focus. Course after course highlighted ingredients closely associated with the region and demonstrated the depth of talent within the kitchen.
Holding three Michelin stars, Atrio has become one of Spain’s most celebrated restaurants. Located within the medieval heart of Cáceres, the restaurant reflects Chef Toño Pérez’s respect for the products and traditions of Extremadura while presenting them with technical precision and real imagination.
José Polo’s wine program is equally serious. The cellar houses one of Spain’s most significant collections, including rare and storied vintages gathered over many years.
Most importantly, it was a wonderful way to celebrate Shirley’s milestone birthday. Sharing a memorable meal around a table with family is one of life’s great pleasures, and this evening delivered exactly that.
Trujillo and Wine Country
The following morning we made our way to Trujillo, just under an hour’s drive from Cáceres.
Centered around one of Spain’s most impressive Plaza Mayors, Trujillo played an important role during the Age of Discovery and is closely associated with Francisco Pizarro and several other explorers who departed Extremadura for the Americas.
A bronze statue of Pizarro dominates the square, surrounded by churches, palaces, and noble residences constructed during the town’s most prosperous years. Beyond the plaza, medieval walls, winding streets, and a hilltop castle offer reminders of Trujillo’s Roman, Moorish, and Christian past.
A guided tour provided an excellent introduction to the town before we settled into the plaza for lunch and a glass of wine. The square remains the social heart of Trujillo, much as it has been for centuries.
For Shirley, this stop carried particular weight. Trujillo is her maiden name, and the town is where her family’s roots in Spain trace back to. Walking those same streets with her, knowing her ancestors once called this place home, was the reason we came, and gave this trip extra meaning.
Later that day we continued into the countryside near Cañamero for a winery visit, tasting, and lunch at Bodegas Cañalva.
Extremadura rarely receives the same attention as some of Spain’s more famous wine regions, yet viticulture has long been part of the region’s agricultural tradition. Our visit included a tour of the vineyards and winery, followed by a tasting and lunch overlooking the surrounding landscape.
Spending time with the family behind these wines added another dimension to the experience and deepened our understanding of both the region and the work that goes into it.
Lunch in Navalcarnero
As we made our way back toward Madrid, we stopped in Navalcarnero for one final meal together.
Las Cuevas del Príncipe is a traditional Castilian asador housed within historic underground caves. Stone walls, open fires, and recipes rooted in regional tradition create an atmosphere that feels distinctly Spanish.
The roasted meats are the specialty here, and lunch proved to be a fitting conclusion to our time in Extremadura. Good food, good company, and a leisurely afternoon before the final drive back to Madrid.
Extremadura & Madrid
If Madrid is already on your itinerary, adding a few days in Extremadura creates a striking contrast. Together they offer a fuller picture of Spain’s culture, history, gastronomy, and regional character.
You can read more about my favorite experiences in Madrid in my blog below.
Final Thoughts
Our three days in Extremadura revolved around Shirley’s birthday, but they also gave us two towns we’d happily return to, an outstanding food and wine culture, and one unforgettable evening at Atrio, all without the crowds found in many of the country’s better-known destinations. Cáceres and Trujillo fit naturally into a longer itinerary through central Spain, with enough to fill a few unhurried days.
It provided the setting for a family celebration that we will be talking about for years to come.
For an expertly guided travel experience, Resort to Laura Madrid offers full-service itinerary planning for a select group of clients. We keep our client list intentionally small to ensure every journey receives the care and attention it deserves. Please click here for more information.
Want to do things your way? Check out PERK by RTLM, our go-to self-booking tool for quick, seamless hotel stays. Perfect for those who already know where they want to stay, love to do their own research, and just need a fast, VIP-approved reservation.