Northern Spain has long tugged at my travel heartstrings – an untamed blend of alpine drama, verdant coastlines, and food so rooted in its surroundings, it tells the story of the land with every bite.
This summer, Gil and I set out on a two-week road trip with dear friends – our besties in travel and in life – to explore the regions I’ve long dreamt about: the Pyrenees, Aragon, Cantabria, Asturias, and the mystical Picos de Europa.
A dreamy road trip traipsing through the undiscovered and picturesque beauty of Northern Spain afforded us experiences that travelers do not easily find! We explored prehistoric cave dwellings in Cantabria, tasted award-winning cheeses with shepherds in the Picos de Europa, fly-fished in crystal-clear alpine rivers, hiked through the jagged-edge Pyrenees passes, and sipped more than our share of delightful Somontano wines alongside hearty local meats and fresh seafood.
Buckle up, there is so much to savor!
First Stop: Aragon’s Pyrenees
Nestled in the shadow of jagged peaks and cloaked in ancient forests, the Aragonese Pyrenees revealed some of the most untouched and soul-stirring landscapes I’ve experienced in Spain. From the glacial valleys of Ordesa to the wild trout streams and sleepy stone villages of Benasque and Hecho, this corner of Aragón felt like stepping into an alpine fairytale – where adventure, serenity, and authenticity coexist in perfect harmony.
The Fly-Fishing Experience
We joined Ivan, a gifted local host and founder of one of Spain’s most coveted fly-fishing programs. The setting is kept deliberately off-the-radar, no geotagging, no guest photography allowed – to protect its integrity. And rightly so. What’s preserved here is something extraordinary: world-class fishing in crystal alpine waters, hosted with precision and warmth.
For those not tempted by a rod and reel, there is still much to love. The operation is managed out of different lodges or small hotels but the staff is always top notch, Ivan’s team travels from lodge to lodge to take care of the few lucky guests who settle in for the outstanding active adventures and hospitality. We were lucky to be in the charming tiny village of Sopeira for our four night adventure and could not have been happier with the setting, food, and hospitality.
The wonderful hospitality and absolutely delicious food served by the husband and wife team, Enrique and Sandra, made us feel as if we were treasured guests in their home.
Hiking the Pyrenees High Passes
This may have been my favorite day – hiking the stunning Pyrenees through challenging passes, verdant pastures, and in early June we even encountered several tricky-to-navigate snow fields. It was a challenging hike but the kind where you are grateful for every gulp of pristine, crisp, mountain air, and every pause offered sweeping views that reminded us just how vast and humbling these mountains can be.
Aragon Wine Tasting: A Perfect Day in Somontano
Some days are etched in memory not for a single moment, but for the way they unfold – effortlessly, deliciously, and with just enough mischief. Our day in the Somontano wine region was exactly that. We sipped elegant Secastilla Garnacha under a blazing Aragon sun, tried (with mixed success) our hand at the porrón challenge – an artful and occasionally comical way to drink wine – and wandered the cellars of the storied Lalanne winery, where generations of tradition are bottled with grace.
It was one of those days that lingers like a good vintage – warm, generous, and just a little wild around the edges. Having travelled extensively through dozens of famed wine regions in Spain, this day in Somontano stood out!
The Wines: Bold, Expressive & Under-the-Radar
Somontano, meaning “beneath the mountain,” gained DOP status in 1994 and has slowly become one of Spain’s most exciting wine regions. The region, like its wines, beautifully blends Spanish tradition with modern ambition. Its diverse grape portfolio and ideal mountain‑foothill climate yield wines ranging from crisp whites like gewürztraminer, chardonnay, and riesling, and deep, expressive reds from garnacha to syrah. Viñas del Vero, Lalanne, Blecua, and Enate all poured wines that surprised and delighted us.
The day concluded with a beautiful and stirring performance by traditional Aragonese musicians called “joteros” and a Michelin starred lunch – an unforgettable experience.
San Sebastian: A Detour Worth Every Bite
San Sebastián is pure magic – an elegant coastal city where Belle Époque charm meets Basque culinary brilliance. Between lazy walks along La Concha beach, pintxos hopping through the cobbled Old Town, and watching surfers dance across the waves at Zurriola, this seaside gem felt both indulgent and effortlessly relaxed. It’s no wonder it’s long been a favorite of foodies, artists, and anyone chasing beauty by the sea.
Having been to San Sebastián over a half-dozen times, I will admit this was not on the original itinerary, but when we did not have any luck clearing our waitlist at number two restaurant in the world, Asador Etxebarri, we took a detour and overnighted in San Sebastian instead which proved to be the perfect transition from Fishing Lodge to our adventures in Cantabria and Asturias.
We strolled the beautiful corniche, indulged in pintxos and wines in the Old Town, dined on fresh fish at a local seafood restaurant, and even got in a hike up to Monte Urgull, a prominent hill on the eastern edge of La Concha Bay, rising behind the Old Town and offering panoramic views of the city, beaches, and sea below.
San Sebastián always delivers, whether it’s your first visit or your seventh.
Final Thoughts: In Praise of the Unscripted and Unspoiled
Northern Spain isn’t flashy. It doesn’t try to win you over. It simply IS – raw and elegant, mysterious and grounded. From the rugged silence of the Pyrenees to the warm notes of Somontano wines, and the sea-kissed charm of San Sebastián, this journey offered something rare: the sense of discovering not just a place, but a rhythm of travel that feels rich and deeply layered.
If you’ve been craving a destination that blends beauty, authenticity, and just the right touch of the unexpected – Northern Spain might be calling you too.